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Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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The commander of the heavenly host is especially revered by combative Cretans.
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Agios Nikolaos has a surprisingly lively after-dark scene, compared with its day-time placidity. The town’s nightlife hot spot is Odos 25 Martiou (running uphill from the southeast corner of the harbour), where there are half a dozen or more music bars, with as many again around the harbour. The town’s dance club scene is more limited, with only one or two full-on clubs (see Agios Nikolaos).
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Agios Nikolaos has the most attractive location of any town in eastern Crete. By the Gulf of Mirabello, it is built around an inner lagoon, Voulismeni, which is surrounded by palm trees and cafés. Modern hotels and apartments dwarf the surviving older buildings, but it is still a place of considerable charm. There is a small town beach, and boats take holidaymakers to larger beaches nearby. The town takes its name from the tiny 11thcentury church of Agios Nikolaos (which now stands in the grounds of the Minos Palace Hotel. The Archaeological Museum (see Agios Nikolaos Archaeological Museum) displays numerous finds from nearby sites including Mochlos and Gournia.
Agios Nikolaos harbour
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This church has a history that reflects Chania’s past. It was built by the Venetians, converted into a mosque after the Turkish conquest, and in the early 20th century converted again into a Greek Orthodox church dedicated to St Nicholas. Its minaret is a relic from the centuries of Muslim worship here.
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The patron saint of seafarers and fishermen is honoured all around the coast of Crete.
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A jug in the stylized shape of a female figure, found at the Bronze Age site at Korifi and known as the Goddess of Mirtos, is this museum’s proudest exhibit. Elsewhere are clay Minoan coffins decorated with paintings, good examples of Vasiliki pottery and some finely worked gold jewellery.
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Overlooking Agios Nikolaos’s lagoon-like inner harbour, the museum houses colourful textiles and costumes, farming and fishing equipment, and household goods.
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At the foot of the Samaria Gorge, and so perfect for a restorative swim in its cool waters after the downhill hike.
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The chapel of Agios Pavlos stands where the saint was swept ashore between Agia Roumeli and Loutro.
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Turn right immediately after the Loggia to find Agios Titos (St Titus). Originally Byzantine, the church was rebuilt by the Venetians, turned into a mosque by the Turks and reclaimed by the Orthodox church in 1925. Inside, a reliquary contains the skull of St Titus.
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