Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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Unlike most larger Cretan coastal towns, Siteia has a perfectly good beach right on its doorstep that is great for windsurfing.
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The beach at Siteia stretches for miles east of the town and is backed by a ramshackle strip of hotels, guesthouses and cafés. This quiet port on Crete’s north coast seems to have escaped the tourist invasion relatively unscathed.
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The most important exhibits are from the palace site at Zakros, on Crete’s east coast, which was uncovered in 1961. They include clay tablets inscribed with the symbols of the Minoan Linear A script, as well as bronze tools and kitchen utensils.
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This fascinating small museum opens a window onto eastern Crete’s past with its collection of picturesque local costumes, beautifully woven and embroidered textiles, silver jewellery and antique cottage furniture, all of which was worn or used within living memory.
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The evil-looking scorpion fish is surprisingly tasty and essential in fish soup.
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This is one of Crete’s largest caves. It was first dedicated to virgin goddess Britomartis and later became a sanctuary to Artemis.
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Once a valuable source of protein in hard times, snails are now regarded as a delicacy. Saligkaria stifado (snail casserole) is a uniquely Cretan dish, and is unlikely to be found on the menu in tourist restaurants.
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Crete’s crystal waters, teaming with colourful fish, are ideal for snorkelling.
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Shaded in places by a line of Tamarisk trees, Sougia’s position between Paleochora and Agia Roumeli makes it ideal for a quick plunge for walkers treading a coastal route.
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Sougia is perfect for anyone in search of peace, quiet and isolation. Tourism is very low-key, with just a scattering of small pensions and guest houses, tavernas and cafés. The town’s beach is long and pebbly, and the water is sparklingly clear, while an hour’s walk away are the ruins of the ancient city-state of Lissos, including a temple to Asklepios, the god of healing, which dates from the 3rd century BC.
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