Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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The walk begins in the sleepy beach village of Sougia, on the eastern fringe of the White Mountains, and climbs first through fields and pastureland, then meadows of wild flowers and pine woods, onto barren slopes high above the sea, before descending to Agia Roumeli. Astute navigational skills and a good map are required.
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Cretan peasant cooking makes full use of any animal slaughtered. Kreatosoupa (meat soup) is made from the bones and leftover scraps of goat, mutton or beef, while patsa is a rich soup made with tripe. Both are often served at festivals, when a goat is traditionally slaughtered and spit-roasted as a family meal.
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A flirtatious dance for the young, and a favourite at weddings and festivals.
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Tiny spinach pies made with flaky filo pastry.
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The fortifications covering this small, rocky island in the Gulf of Mirabello were built by the Venetians in 1579 to control the approaches to this superb natural harbour. Superior sea power allowed Venice to hang onto Spinalonga for half a century after the fall of the rest of Crete to the Turks, and it was surrendered only in 1715. Used as a leper colony in the first half of the 20th century, its buildings are now very dilapidated, but the grim walls may still give the visitor an eerie thrill.
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At the mouth of the Gulf of Mirabello, Spinalonga is a maze of Venetian battlements. Daily boat trips venture here in summer from Plaka, Elounda and Agios Nikolaos – 5, 20 and 35 minutes respectively (see Spinalonga).
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A formidable island fortress built in 1579 to command the entrance to the Gulf of Mirabello. Venice managed to hang on to it even after the surrender of Candia (Irakleio) in 1669, and gave it up only by treaty in 1715. After Turkish withdrawal, it was used for a time as a leper colony (see Spinalonga).
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Coastal Spinalonga Village is a group of traditionalstyle stone houses beside the Gulf of Mirabello, with views across to Spinalonga, and shops and places to eat nearby at Plaka village (a fiveminute walk).
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Older village women still spin wool into yarn using a spindle and distaff – a skill that hasn’t changed since the time of the Minoans.
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This mauve flower with vivid yellow stamens flowers early in the year.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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