Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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The most luxurious dining on the Elounda Peninsula is in the gourmet restaurant of the Elounda Mare hotel.
The menu is fabulous, combining the best of Greek cooking with world-class cuisine, and dining is accompanied by piano music. There are only 20 covers, so booking well ahead is essential. Dress code formal (see The Old Mill, Elounda).
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The most luxurious restaurant in eastern Crete, situated in the Elounda Mare Hotel (see Elounda Mare Hotel, Elounda). The menu combines the best of Greece with international cuisine. Booking essential; dress code formal.
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Chania and Rethymno quickly fall to an attack by Turks in 1645. Venetian seapower enables the Venetian capital of Candia (modern Irakleio) to resist a 21-year siege, but Venice finally surrenders in 1669. The Cretans rise too against the Turks. The first major rebellion begins in 1770 in mountainous Sfakia and is led by Ioannis Daskalogiannis. It ends badly, however, with Sfakia conquered.
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Minos demanded tribute of youths and maidens from the Athenians after defeating them in war. The victims were given to the Minotaur, but Theseus, prince of Athens, slew the Minotaur and escaped the labyrinth with the help of Minos’s daughter Ariadne, who gave him a ball of thread to retrace his steps.
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Sweet-scented thyme, with its deep purple flowers, grows wild on Crete’s roadsides and hillsides.
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This ouzeri-restaurant next to Rethymno’s Town Hall is more authentically Cretan than most, serving good mezes and fish dishes, as well as a plethora of drinks, including, of course, a choice of rakis and ouzos. Often live traditional music at night.
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A clutch of cafés and bars are crammed cheek by jowl into Petihaki, among them this ouzeri which serves tasty snacks, and raki and ouzo for those who have acquired a taste for Cretan-style spirits.
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This family-run taverna is the best place to eat in Agia Roumeli (see Samaria Gorge) and serves sfakanies pites (pies topped with honey, a regional speciality), stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, grilled meat dishes and fish.
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The best of a clutch of traditional knifemakers on the street.
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Tuna steaks are best savoured in spring and autumn, when tuna migrate through Cretan waters.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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