Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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Luxury in this village of restored traditional buildings, with a private courtyard and balcony.
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A pleasant, stylish and reasonably priced eating place close to the Venetian harbour. Vareladika has a tiny outdoor terrace where you can sample the wide menu of Cretan specialities, with wine served in copper jugs from the barrel.
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An attractive complex, created by merging two Venetian mansions and adding a swimming pool. The hotel offers modern, well-equipped rooms and studios.
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On a hilltop above Paleokastro, a Venetian keep shares the peak with the ruins of the Hellenistic city of Polyrinia, which thrived until the Saracen invasion of the 9th century. Stone from Hellenistic buildings, already 1,000 years old when the Venetians arrived, seems to have been incorporated into the castle walls.
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On your way back from the fortress, you will see a series of high stone vaults built into the wall behind the harbour. These were the Arsenali or shipyards where the great galleys were built that gave Venice its control of the sea.
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In 1204 the Republic of Venice took control of Crete and the Aegean islands.
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Built in 1523–40 to guard the harbour approaches, the massive Rocca al Mare, as it was known to the Venetians, served its purpose well. Piles of cannonballs in the inner chambers seem to await another assault.
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Siteia’s restored Venetian fort is used as an open-air theatre for concerts and plays in summer. The fortress is all that remains of the city’s once substantial ring of battlements which resisted a three-year siege by the Turks in 1648–51.
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Conclude your tour down at the pretty Venetian (or Inner) Harbour, and treat yourself to a seafood lunch at Mourayio Maria, set in a 16th-century building with quayside tables.
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Crete falls into Venetian hands after 1204, when the Fourth Crusade goes awry and the Byzantine Emperor is deposed by an army of Frankish crusaders in alliance with Venice. Cretans rebel against the Venetians, but without success.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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