Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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Finds from the Minoan cemetery discovered at Fourni, just north of Archanes village, are displayed in the village’s small but rather good archaeological museum along with relics from other nearby sites.
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Western Crete’s prettiest mountain village is tucked in the foothills of the Lefka Ori, on the site of the Hellenistic town of Lappa. The slopes of its valley setting flourish with lush greenery, watered by natural springs. Argyroupoli makes a good base for relatively easy walking in the surrounding hills.
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A patriotic three-day gathering to commemorate the freedom fighters of the 1866 uprising and the defenders of Moni Arkadiou, who blew themselves up rather than surrender to the Turks.
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This café-bar, on a 1920s freighter in the outer harbour, makes a wonderfully serene spot for after dinner drinks.
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This museum is linked with a holiday village which tries to give its guests a taste of traditional Cretan life, with craft workers who use traditional methods, a restaurant and bakery with wood-burning ovens, and live music and dancing in the evening.
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A complex of stone houses with an array of traditional crafts, from pottery and icon painting to basket weaving and embroidery. Traditional music and dance performed nightly.
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With tables on the east side of the harbour, Aroma is a popular rendezvous for young locals. Fine views of the harbour and a pleasant place for breakfast, morning coffee, an aperitif or after-dinner drinks.
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The askomandoura , or Greek bagpipe, was once a popular instrument around the southern Aegean islands. Like some other seldom heard instruments, it is undergoing a minor revival as a new wave of younger musicians rediscover their musical roots.
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The valley of the “white river” – a stream which, like most Cretan watercourses, flows only in winter and spring – opens into the sea at the east end of Makrygialos beach. Surrounded by pines, boulder-covered slopes, terraced fields and olive groves, it makes a pleasant walk.
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A settlement of 10 adobe-style cottages for lovers of the simple life, with water from the well and paraffin lamps for lighting (though bathroom lights and fridges in each house use solar energy). The lack of 21st-century gadgets is truly relaxing.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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