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This hotel overlooks a fine, sandy beach and has two pools, a tennis court and a range of other land and water sports, including a scuba diving centre. It also has a mini-market and a children’s playground.

In October, flowering from apparently barren ground, the autumn cyclamen signals the end of summer.

Set in the grounds of a small organic farm where fruit trees grow on the Lasithi slopes. Twin-bed plus double room, shower, kitchen, dining room, and living room with fireplace and terrace.

With its pretty garden setting, this is one of the town’s finest. Mainly grilled and roasted meats, and Cretan favourites such as apatzia sausages and roasted goat.

This elegant courtyard restaurant is, arguably, the best in Rethymno. A pretty garden provides the setting for the traditional grilled and roasted meat dishes, served alongside traditional Cretan favourites such as apatzia (smoked sausages) and roast goat (see Avli, Rethymno).

About 10 km (6 miles) inland from the main north coast highway on the way to the scenic Amari Valley, Axos has striking views and an attractive Byzantine church dedicated to Agia Anna. The village is a popular stop for excursion groups, and its tavernas and souvenir shops get crowded around lunch time. On the hillside above Axos are a few scattered remnants of an ancient settlement.

Deep in the mountains of the Selinos region of Crete’s far west, this tiny one-room museum in an old village house is crammed with mementoes of Crete under Turkish rule, from hookah-style tobacco pipes to daggers and costumes. Be warned: opening hours can be eccentric.

Not unique to Crete, this stringed instrument was the poor man’s makeshift bouzouki , home-made with a dried gourd or sometimes a tortoiseshell for a sound box and wire strings.

Another typical winter snack served in mountain village ouzeries, often cooked in a wood-burning stove in the middle of the café.

A small, purpose-built resort set around three coves sheltered by cliffs. Avoid the crowds from June to September.