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One of the less developed beaches on the central north coast, Panormos has a small sandy beach beside a miniature fishing harbour and a few places to eat and drink.

The Dalmatian pelican, which breeds in the lakes and wetlands of northern Greece, Macedonia and Albania, migrates south to the Nile Delta for the winter. A few birds sometimes make landfall in Crete after being blown off course by storms or having become exhausted by the force of strong headwinds.

The Kourtaliotis river meets the sea at Preveli, where the green river, blue sea, date palms and “Greek bamboo” (calamus reeds) create a tropical oasis feel.

Passing through the ruggedly beautiful scenery of the Samaria National Park, the Samaria Gorge is Crete’s most popular walk. The track descends steeply at first from the Omalos plateau, then passes through pine woods, wild flower meadows and ruined, deserted villages to emerge on the Libyan Sea at the small village of Agia Roumeli (see Samaria Gorge).

Europe’s largest butterfly is the dramatically patterned scarce swallowtail, its pale yellow wings marked with dark zebra stripes, and red and blue eye-spots. It’s a strong flyer and may be seen all over Crete in summer.

The tiny Scops owl, with its grey plumage and bright yellow eyes, is common in Crete. It nests in holes in battered stone walls and roosts on roadside telephone poles or tree stumps. You are most likely to see Scops owls at dusk, but after dark they can often be heard calling to each other – a monotonous, one-note hoot.

Although archaeological sites and ancient shipwrecks are off-limits, there are good dives to several wrecks from World War II.

Similarly popular is the “sea biscuit”, a tough inflatable ring for a single rider.