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The so-called “Plain of Windmills” is a high plain of fertile farmland surrounded by bare grey limestone hills. Its nickname is misleading, though. Only a few rusting metal derricks remain of the famed white-sailed windmills that once dotted the plateau in their hundreds. However, Lasithi is still worth a visit for the spectacular drive through the mountains and the glimpses it offers of a traditional way of life.
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Modern-day Agios Nikolaos was once no more than the seaport annex of this Dorian Greek city which flourished between the 7th and 3rd centuries BC. Built around two neighbouring hills, 8 km (5 miles) west of Agios Nikolaos, Lato is the best preserved Dorian site in Crete, with walls built of massive stone blocks. There are fine views over the Gulf of Mirabello from its agora (marketplace) in a saddle between the twin summits.
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Rejoin the main road and drive south for 8 km (5 miles) to the village of Lithines, built by tenants of the aristocratic Lithinos family in about the 10th century AD. Now a ghost village, it has two fine 15th-century churches.
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Sheltered by a stretch of headland and dwarfed by the near-vertical slopes of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) above it, Loutro is one of the most charming spots on Crete. Less than 30 years ago Loutro had only a few elderly inhabitants and one taverna. Tourism has changed all that, and now dazzling white pensions and apartments sit above the tiny crescent-shaped beach. Accessible only on foot (by a precarious cliff path) or by boat from Chora Sfakion, Loutro seems unlikely to be over-run by tourism, and is ideal for a laidback holiday.
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Makrygialos is the most popular holiday resort on the southeast coast, with a long, straggling array of small pensions, hotels and tavernas stretching along a crescent of rather windswept, gently shelving sand and pebble beach, which is the best in this part of the island.
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The south coast of Crete is now only 10 km (6 miles) away. Stop for a late afternoon swim at Makrygialos, a popular beach resort with the best beach in this part of the island. Either stay here for your evening meal or continue to Ierapetra.
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Leave Plateia Kornarou north of the fountain, along the market street Odos 1866, among stalls selling fresh fruit, olives, dried fruit and nuts, and less familiar produce such as buckets of live snails. Midway along 1866, turn left and walk along to Plateia Ekaterinis, where the main landmark is the pompous 19thcentury cathedral.
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Leaving Gournia, drive on along the coast highway to Mochlos, 11 km (7 miles) east of Gournia. This tiny fishing hamlet has a handful of tavernas, and a small boat will take you to the pretty island where the foundations of Minoan houses can be seen.
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Mochlos, 32 km (20 miles) east of Agios Nikolaos on the coast road, is a tiny fishing hamlet with a handful of tavernas. Just offshore is the island of Mochlos, which in ancient times was connected to the mainland by an isthmus. This has been eroded by earthquakes and waves. On the island are the remains of Minoan houses and a Minoan harbour, much of which is now under water. Seal stones, superb gold jewellery and vases carved from quartz, alabaster and black steatite have been discovered in rock tombs on the island and are displayed in the Agios Nikolaos and Siteia archaeological museums.
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A 10-km (6-mile) drive from Siteia takes you along the north coast to Moni Toplou, a spectacular fortified monastery, founded in the 14th century, with sturdy stone walls around an inner courtyard with three tiers of tiny monks’ cells. Within its small church, are some remarkable icons, including one of the finest in Crete, Lord Thou Art Great , by Ioannis Kornaros (see Lord,Thou Art Great by Ioannis Kornaros).
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