Western Crete is in many ways the most exciting part of the island. Much of the west is dominated by the jagged, treeless peaks of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), which may be capped by snow until June. Traversed by spectacular gorges, the mountains drop sharply to the Libyan Sea on Crete’s south coast. These mountains were for centuries the heartland of Cretan resistance to foreign occupiers of the island. Many of the remoter villages were accessible only on foot until the second half of the 20th century, and a traditional way of life lingered longer here than in other parts of the island. The west also has Crete’s two most attractive towns, Chania and Rethymno, and some of the best beaches, ranging from pebbly coves to long swathes of golden sand.
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Follow Ethnikis Antistasis north to the Church of Agios Frangiskos (St Francis), which was formerly part of a Venetian Roman Catholic monastery. The doorway is beautifully carved and the basilica is still used by the town’s small Roman Catholic community.
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At the foot of the Samaria Gorge, and so perfect for a restorative swim in its cool waters after the downhill hike.
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Monks have been drawn to Crete’s peninsulas – Akrotiri’s best monasteries are the abandoned Moni Katholikou and the Venetian Moni Gouverneto (see Moni Gouverneto).
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Pleasant cafés and shops conceal Anogeia’s embattled past, when it was a hotbed of resistance against the Turks, who sacked it in 1821 and 1826, and the Germans, who levelled it in 1944.
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A Byzantine town built on the site of a Hellenistic city, remains here include Roman cisterns, Byzantine foundations, a Venetian monastery and a Turkish fort.
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Founded in 700 BC, ancient Eleftherna was a powerful Dorian city. Having vanished from history, it is now being rediscovered by archaeologists.
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With its pretty garden setting, this is one of the town’s finest. Mainly grilled and roasted meats, and Cretan favourites such as apatzia sausages and roasted goat.
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While waiting for your bus or ferry in Kastelli, consider popping into Bar Piscina. It has a small swimming pool and a reasonable choice of drinks, ice cream and light meals.
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Barbarossa has tables inside an old Venetian-Turkish quayside building, though it happily spills out onto the pier as well. Ice creams, fresh juices and snacks from mid-morning until late at night.
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Chania, Crete’s second largest city, is built around a fine natural harbour which attracted a host of settlers over the millennia, from early Minoans to Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks. The heart of the city is the old town, a huddle of narrow streets sheltered by a ring of battlements built by the Venetians; under their rule Chania was one of Crete’s most important ports. Today the old town is dominated by restaurants, cafés and bars, while outside the Venetian walls is the newer part of town. Chania has some of Crete’smost spectacular scenery as backdrop, with the slopes of the Lefka Ori range (White Mountains) rising steeply a short way inland and seeming to dominate the entire southern horizon (see Chania).
Firkas Fort, Chania
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Palace of KnossosThe Palace of Knossos is the oldest settlement yet found which belonged to the Minoan civilisation and was excavated in the early 20th century. It is the place where the fabled minotaur of Ancient... Read more
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Archaeological MuseumThis important museum in Heraklion houses archaeological finds from all over Crete, and is second in importance only to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. Pride of place goes to the... Read more
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Historical Museum of CreteThe Historical Museum of Crete gathers together the riches of Crete's civilisation from the Byzantine and medieval periods. The collection comprises ceramics, folk art, models of the town and other... Read more
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Central MarketThe market of Heraklion is the richest in Crete and one of the finest in the Mediterranean. Visitors can buy souvenirs, gold, furs, clothes and delicious Cretan products such as olive oil, wine,... Read more
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