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Start your day at the top of Stasicratous and window-shop your way south past ranks of designer stores, then double back along busy Archiepiskopou Makariou III, stopping for a cold drink at one of the street’s hip cafés.
Cross Plateia Eleftherias and enter Laiki Geitonia (see Laiki Geitonia). This area has been restored as a sanitized version of an old-fashioned Nicosia neighbourhood. You’ll find souvenirs aplenty here – some authentic, some amusing and some trashy. The Diakroniki Gallery at Aristokyprou 2B is a good place to seek out original and facsimile prints and engravings. Nearby, at Ippokratous 2, you can find copies of Byzantine silverware at the Leventis Museum Gift shop.
Nicosia’s main shopping street, Odos Lidras (Ledra Street), runs north from Laiki Geitonia. It too is pedestrianized, but it could hardly be more different with its big-name department stores and smaller shops doing a thriving trade in copies of designer sunglasses.
At Plateia Faneromenis, turn right and wander across the square to the Central Market, off Plateia Palaiou Dimarchiou, for a look at how the locals shop: fruit and vegetables, fresh olives, feta cheese and dried herbs are sold from dozens of stalls in this venerable emporium.
If all this food has made you hungry, enjoy a fish lunch at Kalymnos Fish Tavern (see Kalymnos Fish Tavern).
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