Legendary nightlife and equally legendary beaches are what draw most of the hundreds of thousands of visitors who come to Cyprus’s southern and eastern shores each summer. Many of them get no further than the sun-loungers, hotel pools, clubs and bars of Agia Napa or Protaras – both former fishing villages that have rocketed to holiday resort prominence in a relatively small number of years. Larnaka, a busy commercial port as well as Cyprus’s business hub, also has an excellent beach that draws the crowds. Yet there is much more to see in this fascinating region. Among fields and olive groves in the gently rolling hills that give way to the mountains of central Cyprus are tiny Byzantine churches, many of which shelter age-old icons and frescoes. Remarkable Stone Age settlements give off an aura of lost histories. And, tucked away in hidden valleys, are old-fashioned villages where you can shop for traditional handicrafts or sip a cup of Cypriot coffee in a pavement café and simply watch the slow pace of life go by.
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Billed as an “art café”, 1900 takes its name and design inspiration from the building in which it is housed – a town-house that dates from the turn of the 19th century. The music is a mix of classical, jazz and easy-listening rock, and the emphasis is on good coffee and wine.
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This 12-km (7.5-mile) walk, taking about three or four hours (allowing time for swimming stops) is an ideal way to burn off a night’s excesses. But for the less energetic, Agia Napa has plenty of bicycle rental shops and an asphalted bike trail leads round the headland that separates the two resorts. Take plenty of water and wear high-factor sunblock, especially between June and September.
Starting the walk at Agia Napa’s harbour, head east along the coast, past Limnaki and Kryo Nero beaches (see Kryo Nero, Agia Napa). As you leave the last of Agia Napa’s resort hotels behind, the coast becomes progressively rockier, towards the rugged headland of Cape Greco (see Cape Greco) and its landmark radar masts. Kermia beach, 4 km (2.5 miles) east of Agia Napa, is a good place to stop for a dip before setting off across country.
The route now skirts the misleadingly named Agia Napa Forest, which is actually an area of native juniper scrub, then passes the scant remnants of a temple to Aphrodite before plunging down to the blue water and pebbles of tiny Konnos Bay (see Konnos), overlooked by the little white church of Anargyroi.
From here, you can head gradually back into resort territory before reaching Protaras (see Protaras) for a well-earned cold drink. If you’re on foot, there are plenty of taxis to take you back to Agia Napa.
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Agia Napa, on the south shore of a peninsula that juts towards Cyprus’s southeast tip, has risen to fame as one of the world’s great dance party destinations, but there is much more than mere nightlife to this purpose-built sunshine resort. Agia Napa’s core – and the favourite evening rendezvous for party-goers – is its main square, which is packed with bars and café tables. Yet, only steps away from the hedonistic crowds is a tranquil oasis, the medieval Agia Napa Monastery, while down on the sea front the Limnaki (“little harbour”) still has some of its village character, even if, these days, the fishing boats are outnumbered by excursion vessels carrying holidaymakers to outlying beaches (see Agia Napa).
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This tiny cove west of Agia Napa manages to avoid the worst of the summer crowds. There’s a small sandy beach guarded by a little white chapel.
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Taverna -eating at its best, in an old village house with a terrace draped with vines. A good choice of charcoal-grilled dishes, meze and local wines.
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Sit outdoors and watch the world of Agia Napa’s harbour go by at this stylish café in the pedestrianized area by the port. Open day and night, Aragma serves coffee, bottled beers, soft drinks and cocktails, as well as a choice of sandwiches and snacks.
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You will hear the latest Greek and international hits here, a popular haunt with local twenty-somethings and visitors alike. Famed for its café frappé.
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Favouring classic soul and R&B, this small, crowded club is another Agia Napa institution.
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Unlike many of its rivals on the Agia Napa nightlife scene, Carwash stays open all year round. It also sticks to a policy of playing only dance music from the 1970s and 1980s.
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A huge club with three indoor rooms and a large dance floor outside, with music played by top international DJs.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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