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Start the day in Ktima, or upper Pafos, with a visit to the Covered Market (see Covered Market, Ktima Pafos), where you’ll find lace, embroidery, ceramics and leather goods on sale and an array of open-air stalls selling everything the Cypriot housewife could wish for, from kebab skewers to fresh fruit and vegetables. From here, walk up to the town’s only relic of its Ottoman past, the Cami Kebir (Grand Mosque), standing desolate and padlocked in the heart of Ktima’s oldest quarter.
A stroll back along Makariou, Ktima’s main street, takes you through the Central Park with its fountains and cafés to the unassuming Ethnographical Museum and, within sight of it, the much more imposing Byzantine Museum, guarded by a bust of Archbishop Makarios. The highlight of its collection is the icon of Agia Marina, dating from the 8th century AD – one of the oldest in the world.
To avoid a long, hot walk, return to the taxi stand on the town’s main square, close to the corner of Makariou and Evagora Pallikaridi streets, and take a five-minute ride to view the Archaeological Museum’s collection, which spans the millennia between the Bronze Age and the Byzantine era. Then, having whetted your appetite for ancient arcana, take another cab to Kato Pafos (see Kato Pafos Archaeological Park) to see the preserved mosaics of this Roman villa complex.
Continue the Roman theme with lunch at the Roman Restaurant (see Roman Restaurant, Pafos).
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