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Standing aloof above the coastal highway east of Limassol, the ruined foundations of Amathous can only hint of its bygone glories. This was one of the very first of the island’s city-states – under the Romans it was a provincial capital, while under the Byzantine Empire it was the seat of one of the island’s bishops. The remnants of an early Christian basilica, a pagan temple and a spacious Hellenistic agora (marketplace) are the highlights of a site that, despite its accessibility, not far from the luxury resorts and beaches of Limassol’s tourist area, is almost always crowd-free (see Ancient Amathous).

Behind Limassol’s water-front, where newly planted palms nod in the Mediterranean breeze in front of modern high-rise buildings, lies an historic city of old-fashioned workshops and markets. Around the bulk of Limassol Castle, built by the island’s medieval Lusignan dynasty, are the slender minarets of mosques built in the city’s Ottoman heyday, Byzantine churches, narrow shopping streets and a plethora of cafés, bars and restaurants to suit every taste. The medieval museum, within the castle, is a must-see, with its suits of armour and ferocious weaponry, and there are great rooftop views from the castle battlements. The recently refurbished Central Market, in a graceful arcaded building dating from the British era in the early 20th century, is a great place to shop for handmade reed baskets, olive oil, loukoumi (Turkish delight) and other Cypriot delicacies. It is surrounded by old tavernas that make a change from the modern eating-places in the city’s resort area (see Historic Limassol).

Housed in a grandiose old merchant’s mansion, this museum’s collection is almost reminiscent of a jumble sale or an antiques shop. There is an eclectic assemblage of old wooden farm tools and household utensils. There are also silver necklaces and bangles, and decorative, elaborately embroidered and flounced costumes that only a generation ago local women would have taken out of mothballs on village feast days and special family occasions. A wonderful insight into traditional Cypriot lifestyles (see Agia Napa Cathedral).

Travel back through Cyprus’s richly coloured history at this world-class, purpose-built visitor attraction in the heart of old Limassol. The Time Elevator uses state-of-the-art audio-visual technology to take its passengers into the island’s past, from its earliest settlements and its various invading empires up to the present day. It’s particularly popular with children (see Time Elevator, Limassol). Housed in an elegantly adapted and restored carob mill – a remnant of Limassol’s industrial heritage – the Lanitis Complex also features old milling machinery, a souvenir shop and a new arts venue.

With its high-speed chutes and slides, interactive games, pools for grown-ups, teens, sub-teens and toddlers, Cyprus’s largest and most exciting waterpark offers full-on family fun. A very welcome relief from the often blistering heat of high summer, and there are restaurants and shops on site too (see Fasouri Watermania, Limassol).

Kolossi is no fairy-tale fantasy castle, but a solid, forbidding fortress which bears testimony to the military skills of its medieval builders. For a while, it was a stronghold of the piratical Knights of the Order of St John, and was surrounded by the vineyards from which they made the celebrated sweet wine, Commandaria, which was named after their “commandarie”. Sacked by Genoese marauders in the 15th century, it retains many of its original features from that period, thanks to a careful restoration in the 1930s, including a private apartment and a coat of arms of one of the commanders. There are great views of the coast from the castle turrets.

Tier after tier of stone benches, able to seat up to 3,500 spectators, rise above the circular floor of Kourion’s amphitheatre, where gladiators and wild beasts are depicted on a well-preserved mosaic. These days, the restored theatre is the summer venue for more humane cultural events, including Cyprus’s annual theatre, jazz and classical music festivals (see Shakespeare Festival, Kourion). Kourion’s builders must have had an eye for landscape, too, for the theatre has fantastic views over the coast, vineyards and wheat fields of the Akrotiri Peninsula from its position 80 m (260 ft) above sea level (see Kourion).

Stone fragments and toppled columns mark the site of this 7th century BC shrine to the sun-god Apollo in his role as “Hylates”, or god of the woods and forests. It is one of many examples of the way in which Cyprus blended the deities of each new religion that came to the island with the cults that were already established. The site has been partially restored by archaeologists and treasures found here are on display in the island’s museums.

Pafos is really two towns in one – Kato (“lower”) Pafos and Ktima (“upper Pafos”). Kato Pafos was one of the island’s most important seaports during the Middle Ages, then fell into decline and languished for centuries until tourism and the rediscovery of its famed mosaics turned it into a burgeoning resort town. Today, luxury hotels spread along the coast, east to west, and a modern centre is packed with souvenir shops, bars, cafés, nightspots and restaurants. Ktima, only 3 km (2 miles) inland, seems a world away from the tourist hype, being traditionally Cypriot, with authentic cafés and tavernas that cater to local tastes. Three museums in Ktima – ethnographical, archaeological and Byzantine – are well worth making time to see, each reflecting different eras on the island. Midway between the two are the eerie Tombs of the Kings, carved into a rocky hillside. Wealthy residents of the ancient city were entombed in these stone chambers from around the 3rd century. Despite their name, there’s no evidence that Pafian royalty is buried here (see Kato Pafos Archaeological Park).

Archaeological Museum, Pafos

Byzantine museum, Pafos

The Akamas Peninsula is a beachcomber’s heaven. A four-wheel drive vehicle is needed to reach this rugged spine of hills, covered with pine and juniper trees, but it’s worth the effort. Along its south shore are southern Cyprus’s only empty beaches, while from its western-most tip are fine coastal views. There’s excellent snorkelling off its rocky shores, while divers favour the offshore islets, such as St George’s Island (see St George’s Island). For something less energetic, boat trips are possible from Pafos and Lakki (see Akamas Peninsula).