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The Genoese explorer sets foot on Quisqueya, which he believes to be near China, and renames it Hispaniola. The discovery heralds the advent of Spanish colonialism as well as the rapid extermination of the Tainos. The city of Santo Domingo is founded in 1498.

The golden age of the Spanish colony ends when the English privateer loots and vandalizes his way through its main town. By now, English, French, and Dutch pirates are a constant threat to Hispaniola and other Spanish colonies (see Santo Domingo: The Zona Colonial).

After many years of growing French presence in the west of the island, an agreement divides Hispaniola between French Saint Domingue and Spanish Santo Domingo. The French create a huge prosperous colony, based on slavery and sugar, while the underpopulated Spanish side languishes, dominated by large ranches and the Church.

Following 13 years of revolution and civil war, an army of former slaves drives out Napoleon’s troops from Saint Domingue, declaring Haitian independence. The Spanish colony is invaded and reinvaded, but is returned to Spanish rule in 1809. Santo Domingo fears Haitian territorial ambitions, and invades in 1821.

Led by Juan Pablo Duarte, a group of nationalists stage a revolt against the 23-year-old Haitian occupation, declaring a separate, independent Dominican Republic. The Haitians are driven out after wealthy Dominican landowners recruit a peasant army. Duarte is quickly sidelined as regional caudillos (strongmen) struggle for political control.

The Marines land in Santo Domingo to impose peace and “restore order” in a country wracked by infighting. The US presence brings foreign investment in the sugar industry and throws peasants off their land. The occupation also creates a National Police Force, from which emerges Rafael Leonidas Trujillo, “the Benefactor”.

Thirty years of brutal dictatorship come to an end when Trujillo is gunned down on Santo Domingo’s Malecón. Trujillo had become enormously rich and all-powerful, imprisoning, exiling, and murdering his opponents. He even had the capital renamed Ciudad Trujillo in his honor. His death signals a gradual move towards democracy.

The first steps in creating a tourism industry take place with the building of hotels on the North Coast. Over the next three decades the country shrugs off its reliance on sugar and becomes a major player in Caribbean tourism, with resorts, airports, and cruise ships.

A sorry record of voting fraud ends with the country’s first free and fair elections. After 30 years of dominating politics, Trujillo’s former puppet president, Joaquín Balaguer, is forced to retire at the age of 89, allowing Leonel Fernández to win.

After breakfast in your hotel, head for the Parque Duarte , the main downtown hub of activity. It’s worth taking a look at some of the grand buildings lining the square, notably the Moorish-style Centro de Recreo and the Palacio Consistorial , a gingerbread-style building housing exhibitions. You can also hire a horse-drawn carriage, which should cost no more than $10 for half an hour. Always negotiate a price before setting off.

The carriages normally run down the busy shopping street of Calle del Sol , but you may prefer to walk the mile or so down this buzzing commercial thoroughfare. On the intersection of Calle del Sol and Avenida España you’ll come across the Mercado Modelo, a cornucopia of tourist souvenirs.

As you reach the end of Calle del Sol and approach the Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauración , you’ll certainly have earned a rest and a cold drink. Look out for a couple of bars, such as Puerto del Sol.

When you’ve gathered your strength, it’s time to visit the massive monument to the dictator Trujillo (later re-branded as a memorial to independence fighters). The lift has stopped working, so it’s a long, rather tiring, climb to the observation platform at the top. But the exertion is worth it for the view, and it’ll make you feel better about having lunch.