The Dominican Republic is a country of surprising contrasts and extraordinary variety. From the chilly peak of the Caribbean’s highest mountain to some of the region’s most delightful beaches, the country boasts lush valleys, spectacular waterfalls, and sun-baked deserts. The past and present also blend in a fascinating mix of colonial buildings and modern hotels, sleepy rural villages and lively tourist resorts. The people, too, reflect a kaleidoscope of influences — Spanish, African, indigenous — creating a culture that emphasizes both creativity and fun in the fields of music, sport, and art.
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This power hitter enjoyed a long career as a player and award-winning manager.
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Lake and river fishing are popular with locals, but angling-inclined visitors will want to have a go at deep-sea fishing, where sea bass and red snapper are favorites. For those who prefer a Hemingway-style contest, there is big-game fishing for marlin, setting out from Palmar de Ocóa and Cabeza de Toro.
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Pink and elegant in flight, this is the most attractive of the country’s many estuary and lagoon birds.
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Sunday mornings see the hustle-bustle of several mercados de pulgas in the capital. The outdoor gatherings at the Centro de los Héroes, the bottom of Avenida Luperón, and Avenida 30 de Mayo offer unlikely household implements, occasional antiques, day-to-day clothing, and cheap food.
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Large helpings of good value, traditional Dominican dishes, served in simple surroundings.
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This magnificent coal-black sea bird has a red throat that expands dramatically during its mating rituals.
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A Dominican version of fries, these are chunks of deep-fried ripe plantain, sprinkled with a little salt.
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Morning
Leave Puerto Plata early, heading south towards Santiago on the Carretera 5. After about 6 miles (10 km) take a right turn onto a road signposted Maimón and Guzmancito. This rough but passable route takes you through some beautiful rural scenery, including Maimón Beach and a series of tiny fishing and farming villages. Keep your eyes firmly on the road, as there are many animals.
The road comes out at La Sabana. A right from here leads to Luperón. You can stop here for a drink, or pass through town and stop by Puerto Blanco Marina for refreshments.
Another 8 miles (13 km) or so along the Carretera de las Américas through dry woodland and flocks of goats, brings you to the pretty seaside village of El Castillo. Just before the village entrance is the turn-off for the Parque Nacional La Isabela. An hour or so is sufficient time to look around.
At lunchtime, go into El Castillo and on the right you’ll see the Rancho del Sol hotel, whose restaurant is recommended for seafood. Or head back to the marina or Luperón’s Playa Grande for food.
Afternoon
Returning to Puerto Plata, it’s quicker, if less scenic, to go straight to the major junction of Imbert, where the Texaco garage marks the road back.
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Morning
Leave Samaná after breakfast, heading eastwards along the Carretera 5. On the left are steep hillsides dotted with small farms and rural settlements, on the right the broad vista over the Samaná Bay.
Following Playa Las Flechas, a beach named after the arrows that local Taino tribesmen reportedly shot at Christopher Columbus on his first visit, is a small jetty and fishing village called Simi Baez. Here you can either take a ferry to the nearby Cayo Levantado, or spend some time on the beach or another nearby stretch of sand called Anacaona.
The road continues along the coast, revealing exuberant vegetation and idyllic bays, until at Los Cacaos you come across the Victorian elegance of the Gran Bahía resort, surrounded by colorful gardens. From here, turning northwards, the road passes through an unusual landscape of limestone caves, known as the Cuevas de Agua, where locals will be happy to show the subterranean Taino sites (see Taino Indian Sites).
Afternoon
Aim to arrive in Las Galeras in time for lunch. Try the food at El Marinique , which specializes in steaks and seafood, or at one of the other eateries around. Then it’s time to visit the beach itself, choosing a shady spot – but not one directly under a cluster of coconuts.
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This band mixes merengue with rap and hip-hop to produce “merenhouse” music.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
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