DK Travel : Dominican Republic : The Central Highlands

Entirely different in temperature and atmosphere from the low-level capital and seaside resorts, the country’s interior is dominated by the rugged mountain range known as the Cordillera Central, which arcs down from the Haitian border towards San Cristóbal. The highest point of the range is the Pico Duarte at 10,128 ft (3,087 m), but there are many other peaks and adjacent valleys, especially in and around the popular tourist bases of Jarabacoa and Constanza. Here, you can even feel the chill of an early morning frost, while a profusion of flowers and vegetables thrive in the temperate climate. Santiago is situated within easy reach of the mountains, separating them from the fertile farmland of the Cibao Valley, and from here it is a fascinating excursion westwards through the Highlands to the hilltop town of San José de las Matas.

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Hiking

The Dominican Alps (see Constanza & “The Dominican Alps”, are the perfect place for walking, whether short strolls or hikes. Most hotels can recommend a specialist operator for the more ambitious.
Horseback Riding

The region is well equipped for riding enthusiasts, with several outfits such as Rancho Baiguate offering top-class facilities.
Hotel Alto Cerro

The menu features home-reared geese, guinea fowl, rabbits, and turkeys, and fresh fruits.
Hotel Gran Jimenoa

Overlooking the Jimenoa River, the hotel offers pleasant outdoor seating. The menu features local meats. Dominican families come here for lunch at weekends.
Kayaking

The Río Yaque del Norte and the Jimenoa (see Salto de Jimenoa) are good kayaking rivers, with a mix of white water, sharp turns, and precipitous drops.
Kukara Macara

At the foot of the Monumento a los Héroes, this rustic restaurant is decorated in gaucho style. Its fare concentrates on good quality meat, including Angus steaks, as well as tacos, sandwiches, and burgers.
La Ciénega

The tiny rural village of La Ciénega de Manaboa is the starting point for the popular hike to the summit of Pico Duarte. The office for Parque Nacional Armando Bermúdez is situated to the north of the village, and it is obligatory to register here and hire a guide. There is a rudimentary camping ground by the park office, where some climbers spend the night before setting off early the next morning. The Ciénega Trail is about 28 miles (45 kms) and usually takes a minimum of three days.
La Herradura

Good, hearty food from sandwiches to pasta, fish and meat is served in a ranch-style restaurant with rustic decor. Live music at weekends.
La Vega

One of the earliest European settlements, La Vega was an important base for gold-mining in the Cibao Valley during Columbus’s time, but was later flattened by an earthquake. The modern town reveals nothing of that period. There’s little either of Victorian-era boom time, when some imposing public buildings appeared. The most conspicuous structure these days is the concrete modernist Catedral de la Concepción de La Vega, apparently intended to capture the spirit of the colonial period. La Vega really comes into its own each February, when it stages one of the country’s most celebrated Carnival celebrations (see Carnival), and the construction of masks from papier-mâché becomes an art form.

La Vega
Las Matas de Farfán

The archetypal Dominican market town, Las Matas (literally roots) is supposed to be named after the tree under which the 18th-century merchant Farfán used to enjoy a siesta. It’s still a sleepy sort of place, except on Saturdays when the market brings crowds of campesinos into town for some bartering and gossip. There are few tourist sights as such, but Las Matas, as well as the surrounding countryside, gives a taste of small-town rural life.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
- under $10
- $10–$20
- $20–$30
- $30–$40
- over $40