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A place historically dominated by mining, Bonao is not the prettiest site in the country, though it is strategically situated on the Autopista Duarte that connects Santo Domingo to Santiago. The Falconbridge plant, when operating, can be visited free of charge, but also explore the pretty mountain scenery around the town by taking the small road towards the Presa Alto Yuna, the nearby dammed lake. There are fine views of the Cordillera Central.

One of the earliest European settlements, La Vega was an important base for gold-mining in the Cibao Valley during Columbus’s time, but was later flattened by an earthquake. The modern town reveals nothing of that period. There’s little either of Victorian-era boom time, when some imposing public buildings appeared. The most conspicuous structure these days is the concrete modernist Catedral de la Concepción de La Vega, apparently intended to capture the spirit of the colonial period. La Vega really comes into its own each February, when it stages one of the country’s most celebrated Carnival celebrations (see Carnival), and the construction of masks from papier-mâché becomes an art form.

La Vega

Commanding a spectacular view of the valley that Columbus dubbed La Vega Real (Royal Valley), the 19th-century church of Santo Cerro reputedly marks the spot where the Virgin made a miraculous intervention in 1495. The cross that she defended from burning by the Tainos was, according to legend, erected on the hillside by Columbus himself, and the church claims to preserve a fragment of the original crucifix. It’s surrounded by ornate Catholic iconography.

Smaller and slower paced than the capital, Santiago is nonetheless a major metropolis of over 750,000 people, with contrasting elements of wealth and poverty, old and new. The plush modern suburbs to the north are pleasant, but the city’s real atmosphere and interest are concentrated in a relatively small downtown district around the Parque Duarte and the huge Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauracíon, joined by the main shopping street. It’s also worth looking into Santiago’s proud past as a major producer of sugar and tobacco, especially with a visit to a cigar factory or rum distillery.

Santiago’s cathedral

This is an ideal place for outdoor activities, ranging from hiking and horseback riding to challenging river-based sports, and the resorts of Jarabacoa and Constanza specialize in excursions. The climate and lack of urban spread also contribute to a wide and varied range of fauna and flora, making it a paradise for bird-watchers and botanists (see Constanza & “The Dominican Alps”).

The tiny rural village of La Ciénega de Manaboa is the starting point for the popular hike to the summit of Pico Duarte. The office for Parque Nacional Armando Bermúdez is situated to the north of the village, and it is obligatory to register here and hire a guide. There is a rudimentary camping ground by the park office, where some climbers spend the night before setting off early the next morning. The Ciénega Trail is about 28 miles (45 kms) and usually takes a minimum of three days.

Another starting point for a Pico Duarte ascent, this airy and laid-back mountain town provides a fascinating insight into everyday agricultural life. The surrounding countryside is dotted with coffee plantations and small farms, and the town itself acts as a trading center for local farmers. Apart from the fiesta patronal , staged every August, you can go on plenty of pleasant excursions to nearby rivers and swimming spots. The town also offers spectacular views over densely wooded hillsides and valleys, dotted with palm trees.

A surprisingly large town lying in a fertile valley to the south of the Cordillera Central, San Juan is a busy agricultural center, surrounded by banana plantations and coffee farms. Its proximity to the Haitian border has brought problems over the centuries as invading armies occupied and destroyed the town. Today’s architecture is modern, but there are also some turn-of-the-19th-century buildings around the Parque Central, where a permanent buzz of outdoor buying and selling makes for an interesting walk.

Reputed to be the site of an ancient Taino city, a large open space contains a ring of boulders with what seems to be a ceremonial slab in the middle. It was here that Anacaona, the legendary widow of Caonabo — who was tricked into captivity by the Spanish — attempted to galvanize anti-Spanish feeling among the differing Taino chieftains into a revolt. She was captured and executed, and the settlement destroyed. From what remains it is not clear how much is reconstructed, but the carved stone face on the slab looks authentic enough.

The archetypal Dominican market town, Las Matas (literally roots) is supposed to be named after the tree under which the 18th-century merchant Farfán used to enjoy a siesta. It’s still a sleepy sort of place, except on Saturdays when the market brings crowds of campesinos into town for some bartering and gossip. There are few tourist sights as such, but Las Matas, as well as the surrounding countryside, gives a taste of small-town rural life.