DK Travel : Dominican Republic : La Isabela Bay

La Isabela Bay

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Set among some of the country’s most rugged countryside and bordered by magnificent beaches, La Isabela breathes history as the site of the first permanent colonial settlement in the Americas. The bay protects a placid expanse of ocean, while a pristine white beach looks much as it must have done in 1493 when Christopher Columbus decided to establish a town on this spot, named in honor of the Spanish Queen. The excavated ruins of La Isabela give a powerful impression of that decisive moment, but it is the situation as much as the archeological display that makes this place special. An adventurous trek through remote terrain is rewarded by an unforgettable insight into how the course of history was changed.

Top 10 Sights

1. Parque Nacional Histórico La Isabela

A protected national park gradually excavated since the 1950s, the site of the original settlement sits on a promontory; an expanse of red sand dotted with acacia trees and crisscrossed by paths that lead visitors around the architectural remains.
2. The Settlement

Small walls of roughly hewn limestone trace the foundations of La Isabela’s structures, including what are thought to be warehouses, a chapel, a rudimentary hospital, and a watchtower.
3. Columbus’s House

3. Columbus’s House

On a slight bluff overlooking the site is the shell of the residence belonging to Columbus. Covered with a thatched awning, the ruin shows that he lived in a modest dwelling made of packed earth and stone.
4. Cemetery

4. Cemetery

The New World’s first Christian cemetery occupies a scenic waterside position, decorated by the later addition of white crosses. Both Spaniards and Tainos were buried here, and in one grave a Christian skeleton was exhumed.
5. Museum

5. Museum

The park’s museum contains a compact but well-maintained display of Taino artifacts, including pottery and arrowheads. The exhibits’ captions are Spanish-only, but these are visually interesting and include a model of Columbus’s ship, the Santa Maria.
6. Playa Isabela

6. Playa Isabela

The beach, where the slow-moving Bajabonico River meets the sea, is an unspoilt stretch of sand, where tiny fishing boats bob offshore. Amenities are few, so come prepared.
7. Templo de las Américas

7. Templo de las Américas

This colonial-style church is a blend of whitewashed stone and brick, built in 1990, in time to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s arrival. Pope John Paul II said Mass here in 1992.
8. Laguna Estero Hondo

You can explore one of the region’s best-preserved mangrove forests with a boat trip through this wild lagoon. Gnarled mangrove thickets are home to many birds, and you may be fortunate enough to catch sight of a rare manatee (see Manatee).
9. Punta Rucia Beach

This is a long expanse of soft-white sand and limpid water, where small restaurants and shops provide cold drinks and freshly caught fish.
10. Cayo Paraiso

A tiny speck of sun-bleached circular sand-bank surrounded by coral reef and aquamarine sea, the cay can be visited on an organized tour by speedboat from Punta Rucia or the village of Castillo.

Practical Information

“Official” guides from the national park office are meant to accompany visitors and expect a tip. English-speaking Celestino Torres has been recommended. The roads around La Isabela are potholed and often occupied by large herds of goats. Driving after dark is not a good idea. Parque Nacional Histórico La Isabela: Open 8am–5pm daily; Adm $3 Museum: Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Sat; Adm $2 Templo de las Américas: Open 9am–5pm daily; Free Cayo Paraiso: www.cayoparaiso.com