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The Northwest : Places of interest

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  • The “Seven Brothers” are a cluster of tiny islets or cays, flat and dry, lying within the Parque Nacional Monte Cristi. Almost entirely devoid of vegetation, these arid sand spits are surrounded by some of the most pristine reefs in the Caribbean, rarely visited by divers. The islands are a haven for seabirds and turtles, which have always used them as egg-laying territory, but it is reported that poaching is now a major problem. Excursions by boat to the cays can be organized, either from a hotel or from the beach of Playa Juan de Bolaños.

  • One of three official crossing points with neighboring Haiti, the town’s famous for its Monday and Friday markets. Crowds of Haitian vendors cross the bridge over the dividing river and set up stalls near the crossing. The resulting hubbub of commercial transactions is loud and colorful, as Haitians and Dominicans haggle furiously over basics. The market’s over by mid-afternoon, so it’s worth arriving early to see the action and maybe snap up a bargain or two.

  • La Isabela

    The site of Columbus’s first permanent settlement in the Americas is full of historic interest and natural beauty. Looking out over the Atlantic Ocean, the bluff where the explorer established a European toehold contains the foundations of a warehouse, chapel, and rudimentary hospital. The Parque Nacional La Isabela museum explains the site’s significance, while the cemetery nearby is an atmospheric patch of tomb-stones and acacia trees (see La Isabela Bay).

  • Named after a Puerto Plata tobacco magnate, military leader, and president, this small town is typical of the Northwest. It offers little in the way of conventional tourist attractions, but boasts rural atmosphere. The Parque Central is the focal point, with most of the local fish restaurants and bars. Luperón’s main claim to fame, however, is its natural bay, which is a favorite with the yachting fraternity. The all-inclusive Luperón Beach Resort is the town’s premier hotel.

  • The border town and port of Manzanillo, also known since the 1930s as Pepillo Salcedo, is as isolated a spot as you’re likely to find in the Dominican Republic. But it’s interesting because of its proximity to Haiti and its history as a major banana-exporting center and dock. Nowadays, the port looks very run-down, but there are plans afoot to erect a new industrial complex. From the town itself, you can look over the Massacre River into Haitian territory, but there’s no official crossing point here. The nearby lagoon and salt marsh shelters hosts of flamingos and other waders.

  • Monte Cristi

    Like some cowboy movie set, the main town of the region has a rather melancholic feel, set in the scorchingly hot and flat delta of the Río Yaque del Norte. Monte Cristi was once an important port, exporting tobacco and mahogany. The Victorian buildings situated around the Parque Central give an idea of its golden age, which came to an end when a railway link from Santiago to Puerto Plata supplanted it. The French clock tower and various gingerbread mansions are worth a look, especially the ornate Villa Doña Emilia Jiménez.

    Isla Cabrita, Monte Cristi
  • Parque Nacional Monte Cristi

    Divided between a series of offshore islands, a mangrove delta, and a large inland expanse of desert badlands, the national park shelters a profusion of wildlife, including crocodiles, turtles, and innumerable bird species. The most accessible and interesting part is the flat-topped mountain of El Morro, the imposing outcrop that looks like a sleeping camel. You can walk up some steps from the national park office through a cleavage in the mountain, reaching an isolated beach below, from where it’s a relatively short swim to Isla Cabrita. The sea around Monte Cristi is said to be full of shipwrecks.

    El Morro, Parque Nacional
    Cactus, Parque Nacional
  • Playa Ensenata

    This stretch of fine white sand shares a headland with the Punta Rucia Beach to the west, accessible with some difficulty from the small village of Estero Hondo. Given the remoteness of the place, it’s surprising how busy it can become, especially at weekends, when locals come to picnic, swim, and enjoy. It is possibly one of the best beaches in the country with clear shallow water, dramatic mountain scenery, and a welcome absence of vendors and hustlers. Food and drink are usually available at weekends from a few impromptu beach bars.

  • Not to be confused with the magnificent beach of the same name near Río San Juan, this more modest stretch of sand is Luperón’s local seaside attraction, backed by a hotel complex. The sea here is inviting, the row of palm trees provides welcome shade, and the sand is pleasantly soft and clean. Nearby are a handful of bars and eating places.

  • This magnet for yachties, 2 miles (3.2 km) out of Luperón village, draws a good number of visitors. The marina is located in the estuary, framed by mangrove forests and sheltering hills, with boats moored in the calm anchorage. The bar and restaurant are normally busy, and non-sailors are always welcome. From here it’s easy to take a catamaran tour of the estuary and the coast with Rancho Veragua, and to hire diving and snorkeling equipment. With its cosmopolitan crowd of sailing aficionados, the marina has a different feel to the rest of the region.

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