Little has changed in this isolated and unexplored area of the country. There are hardly any tourist resorts as yet, and time seems to have stopped still in the sleepy towns and villages that dot the empty landscape. A mix of small farms and bone-dry desert wilderness, the region has little of the lushness to be found elsewhere, suggesting that life here is often hard. Yet, despite the sometimes-forbidding appearance of the terrain, the Northwest has distinct attractions, not least its fascinating ecosystems, best explored in the Parque Nacional Monte Cristi. Its beaches, too, are magnificent, and, because of its out-of-the-way character, less developed than those to the east of Puerto Plata.
For reservations at Luperón Beach Resort, Carretera La Isabela call 571 8303 Gaviota Tours: 571 0337, organize trips to Dajabón and across the border-
The region’s desert conditions are ideal for many different sorts of cactus. The best-loved, though, is called tuna , the prickly pear, which boasts lovely white flowers and bears edible fruit.
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The “Seven Brothers” are a cluster of tiny islets or cays, flat and dry, lying within the Parque Nacional Monte Cristi. Almost entirely devoid of vegetation, these arid sand spits are surrounded by some of the most pristine reefs in the Caribbean, rarely visited by divers. The islands are a haven for seabirds and turtles, which have always used them as egg-laying territory, but it is reported that poaching is now a major problem. Excursions by boat to the cays can be organized, either from a hotel or from the beach of Playa Juan de Bolaños.
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This thatched restaurant and bar overlooking the sea is within walking distance of the all-inclusive resorts.
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The food at this eatery is reasonable, although their paella or the seafood platter may cost a little more.
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A busy family-run comedor , well known for its excellent home cooking. Goat meat is the local delicacy, so don’t miss their spicy and highly-satisfying goat stew.
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Like their relatives in Lago Enriquillo, the Northwest’s American crocodiles are not remotely aggressive, fleeing approaching humans and thriving on fish. Their preferred habitat are mangrove forests.
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One of three official crossing points with neighboring Haiti, the town’s famous for its Monday and Friday markets. Crowds of Haitian vendors cross the bridge over the dividing river and set up stalls near the crossing. The resulting hubbub of commercial transactions is loud and colorful, as Haitians and Dominicans haggle furiously over basics. The market’s over by mid-afternoon, so it’s worth arriving early to see the action and maybe snap up a bargain or two.
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This bistro is quite famous for its fresh and delicious seafood. There is a disco, The Moon, at the rear, and rooms are available for the night.
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A hotel, restaurant, and disco, Don Gasper specializes in Dominican and Spanish dishes. Try the eggs and mangú , mashed plantain with onions.
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Taller and whiter than the cattle egret, the snowy egret is another mangrove-loving bird. It nests in colonies in the protective thickets and stalks its prey in the shallow waters (see Cattle Egret).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
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