DK Travel : Dominican Republic : The Northwest

Little has changed in this isolated and unexplored area of the country. There are hardly any tourist resorts as yet, and time seems to have stopped still in the sleepy towns and villages that dot the empty landscape. A mix of small farms and bone-dry desert wilderness, the region has little of the lushness to be found elsewhere, suggesting that life here is often hard. Yet, despite the sometimes-forbidding appearance of the terrain, the Northwest has distinct attractions, not least its fascinating ecosystems, best explored in the Parque Nacional Monte Cristi. Its beaches, too, are magnificent, and, because of its out-of-the-way character, less developed than those to the east of Puerto Plata.

For reservations at Luperón Beach Resort, Carretera La Isabela call 571 8303 Gaviota Tours: 571 0337, organize trips to Dajabón and across the border

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El Bistro

A charming restaurant set in a colonial courtyard. Its elegant bar and extensive menu of seafood, salads, and pasta make it very popular.
From Puerto Plata to La Isabela & Back

Morning

Leave Puerto Plata early, heading south towards Santiago on the Carretera 5. After about 6 miles (10 km) take a right turn onto a road signposted Maimón and Guzmancito. This rough but passable route takes you through some beautiful rural scenery, including Maimón Beach and a series of tiny fishing and farming villages. Keep your eyes firmly on the road, as there are many animals.

The road comes out at La Sabana. A right from here leads to Luperón. You can stop here for a drink, or pass through town and stop by Puerto Blanco Marina for refreshments.

Another 8 miles (13 km) or so along the Carretera de las Américas through dry woodland and flocks of goats, brings you to the pretty seaside village of El Castillo. Just before the village entrance is the turn-off for the Parque Nacional La Isabela. An hour or so is sufficient time to look around.

At lunchtime, go into El Castillo and on the right you’ll see the Rancho del Sol hotel, whose restaurant is recommended for seafood. Or head back to the marina or Luperón’s Playa Grande for food.

Afternoon

Returning to Puerto Plata, it’s quicker, if less scenic, to go straight to the major junction of Imbert, where the Texaco garage marks the road back.
Ibises

The gregarious ibises, white with a trademark red bill and face, roost and feed in large flocks. They prefer mudflats and shallow lagoons, where they love to feed on crabs and small fish.
La Isabela

The site of Columbus’s first permanent settlement in the Americas is full of historic interest and natural beauty. Looking out over the Atlantic Ocean, the bluff where the explorer established a European toehold contains the foundations of a warehouse, chapel, and rudimentary hospital. The Parque Nacional La Isabela museum explains the site’s significance, while the cemetery nearby is an atmospheric patch of tomb-stones and acacia trees (see La Isabela Bay).
La Yola

This German-owned eatery near the marina has tasty seafood as well as international cuisine.
Luperón

Named after a Puerto Plata tobacco magnate, military leader, and president, this small town is typical of the Northwest. It offers little in the way of conventional tourist attractions, but boasts rural atmosphere. The Parque Central is the focal point, with most of the local fish restaurants and bars. Luperón’s main claim to fame, however, is its natural bay, which is a favorite with the yachting fraternity. The all-inclusive Luperón Beach Resort is the town’s premier hotel.
Mangroves

The gnarled thickets of vegetation, their roots emerging from mudflats, estuaries, and lagoons, are a unique ecosystem, providing food and shelter to a huge spectrum of birds, fish, and crustaceans.
Manzanillo

The border town and port of Manzanillo, also known since the 1930s as Pepillo Salcedo, is as isolated a spot as you’re likely to find in the Dominican Republic. But it’s interesting because of its proximity to Haiti and its history as a major banana-exporting center and dock. Nowadays, the port looks very run-down, but there are plans afoot to erect a new industrial complex. From the town itself, you can look over the Massacre River into Haitian territory, but there’s no official crossing point here. The nearby lagoon and salt marsh shelters hosts of flamingos and other waders.
Monte Cristi

Like some cowboy movie set, the main town of the region has a rather melancholic feel, set in the scorchingly hot and flat delta of the Río Yaque del Norte. Monte Cristi was once an important port, exporting tobacco and mahogany. The Victorian buildings situated around the Parque Central give an idea of its golden age, which came to an end when a railway link from Santiago to Puerto Plata supplanted it. The French clock tower and various gingerbread mansions are worth a look, especially the ornate Villa Doña Emilia Jiménez.

Isla Cabrita, Monte Cristi
Mosquitoes

Obviously, the least-loved of natural inhabitants, these irritating creatures proliferate in the swampy conditions. They can create a genuine health hazard, and cases of dengue fever and malaria have been reported near Haiti.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
- under $10
- $10–$20
- $20–$30
- $30–$40
- over $40