DK Travel : Dominican Republic : The Northwest

Little has changed in this isolated and unexplored area of the country. There are hardly any tourist resorts as yet, and time seems to have stopped still in the sleepy towns and villages that dot the empty landscape. A mix of small farms and bone-dry desert wilderness, the region has little of the lushness to be found elsewhere, suggesting that life here is often hard. Yet, despite the sometimes-forbidding appearance of the terrain, the Northwest has distinct attractions, not least its fascinating ecosystems, best explored in the Parque Nacional Monte Cristi. Its beaches, too, are magnificent, and, because of its out-of-the-way character, less developed than those to the east of Puerto Plata.

For reservations at Luperón Beach Resort, Carretera La Isabela call 571 8303 Gaviota Tours: 571 0337, organize trips to Dajabón and across the border

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Orchid

Hundreds of species of orchid of every color abound in the swamps of the Parque Nacional Monte Cristi, (see Parque Nacional Monte Cristi). Some grow out of trees, the others mysteriously thrive on dry rock faces.
Ovando

A fine Mediterranean restaurant with colonial decor. The French chef prepares gourmet meals and delicious desserts. There’s an extensive wine cellar, too.
Oystercatchers

The American oystercatcher is difficult to confuse with any of the other waders due to its large size, striking black and white plumage, and bright orange bill.
Parque Nacional Monte Cristi

Divided between a series of offshore islands, a mangrove delta, and a large inland expanse of desert badlands, the national park shelters a profusion of wildlife, including crocodiles, turtles, and innumerable bird species. The most accessible and interesting part is the flat-topped mountain of El Morro, the imposing outcrop that looks like a sleeping camel. You can walk up some steps from the national park office through a cleavage in the mountain, reaching an isolated beach below, from where it’s a relatively short swim to Isla Cabrita. The sea around Monte Cristi is said to be full of shipwrecks.

El Morro, Parque Nacional

Cactus, Parque Nacional
Paul’s Pub & Cybercafé

This joint, open until midnight, serves steak, seafood, and curries. The bar’s at your service till late too, with German beer on draught. There’s live music at times.
Pelicans

The huge, heavy brown pelican, with long bill and pouch, can be seen either swimming in the sea or diving spectacularly at a steep angle in search of a fish.
Playa Ensenata

This stretch of fine white sand shares a headland with the Punta Rucia Beach to the west, accessible with some difficulty from the small village of Estero Hondo. Given the remoteness of the place, it’s surprising how busy it can become, especially at weekends, when locals come to picnic, swim, and enjoy. It is possibly one of the best beaches in the country with clear shallow water, dramatic mountain scenery, and a welcome absence of vendors and hustlers. Food and drink are usually available at weekends from a few impromptu beach bars.
Playa Grande

Not to be confused with the magnificent beach of the same name near Río San Juan, this more modest stretch of sand is Luperón’s local seaside attraction, backed by a hotel complex. The sea here is inviting, the row of palm trees provides welcome shade, and the sand is pleasantly soft and clean. Nearby are a handful of bars and eating places.
Puerto Blanco Marina

This magnet for yachties, 2 miles (3.2 km) out of Luperón village, draws a good number of visitors. The marina is located in the estuary, framed by mangrove forests and sheltering hills, with boats moored in the calm anchorage. The bar and restaurant are normally busy, and non-sailors are always welcome. From here it’s easy to take a catamaran tour of the estuary and the coast with Rancho Veragua, and to hire diving and snorkeling equipment. With its cosmopolitan crowd of sailing aficionados, the marina has a different feel to the rest of the region.
Puerto Blanco Marina

Dine in the pretty setting of a lagoon surrounded by man-groves. Enjoy seafood at the restaurant and live music at the popular bar.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
- under $10
- $10–$20
- $20–$30
- $30–$40
- over $40