Jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean , the Samaná Peninsula is a strip of mountainous and verdant land, where the sea is never far away. Water is omnipresent, with views of the sea at every turn, but also in the form of fresh-water streams and cascading waterfalls. Combined with above-average rainfall, this environment produces a spectacle of densely wooded hillsides and coconut groves. Perhaps due to the late arrival of a non-intensive form of tourism, it is more relaxed than elsewhere. History, too, seems to have given it a separate identity. There are stronger traces of a Taino heritage in these parts, and in and around Samaná town are the descendants of English-speaking African-Americans who moved here in the 1820s.
Ferries operate daily from Malecón to the island of Cayo Levantado at $20 each way For further information on hotels along Los Cacaos, log on to www.occidental-hoteles.com For more information on Parque Nacional Los Haïtises, visit their office at Sabana de la Mar or call 556 7333-
A café-style restaurant and bar on the seafront road, it serves excellent shrimp along with drinks, in the open as well as indoors. Open late, until the last customer leaves.
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Primarily a restaurant, Barrio Latino is also a swinging bar that stays open until midnight.
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Located in Pueblo de los Pescadores on the beach, with the best fish and seafood in town. Everything’s fresh and cooked Basque style (see Casa Boga, Las Terrenas).
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A stunningly pretty desert island, Cayo Levantado lies a couple of miles offshore from Samaná and is easily reached by regular boat services from the Malecón. Such is the tropical charm of this Robinson Crusoe-style cay that it’s said that the world-famous Bacardi commercial, featuring white sands and a particularly pretty palm tree, was filmed here. Nowadays, it’s advisable to arrive early or visit later in the day, as the island can be very crowded with excursion-ists around lunchtime. The beaches to the island’s south are slightly less busy, but you are unlikely to escape fellow sight-seers altogether.
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Colorful decor and friendly service makes this a popular stop for snacks as well as meals. Don’t miss the delicious crêpes with a variety of fillings, the tasty shrimps, or the salads.
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An open-air seaside restaurant serving terrific food – notably papaya crêpes with maple syrup, and mouthwatering pizza.
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Set in the Pueblo de los Pescadores, this is a pleasant seafront bar and a popular meeting place. Owners Vero and Alex are expert at blending amazing, large drinks.
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A beach bar offering refreshing drinks, delectable fish, and shrimp – baked or fried.
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A Spanish-owned restaurant with terra-cotta walls and colored lights outside. Seafood is the specialty, with fish, lobster, shrimp, and crab served with a small salad and rice.
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Morning
Leave Samaná after breakfast, heading eastwards along the Carretera 5. On the left are steep hillsides dotted with small farms and rural settlements, on the right the broad vista over the Samaná Bay.
Following Playa Las Flechas, a beach named after the arrows that local Taino tribesmen reportedly shot at Christopher Columbus on his first visit, is a small jetty and fishing village called Simi Baez. Here you can either take a ferry to the nearby Cayo Levantado, or spend some time on the beach or another nearby stretch of sand called Anacaona.
The road continues along the coast, revealing exuberant vegetation and idyllic bays, until at Los Cacaos you come across the Victorian elegance of the Gran Bahía resort, surrounded by colorful gardens. From here, turning northwards, the road passes through an unusual landscape of limestone caves, known as the Cuevas de Agua, where locals will be happy to show the subterranean Taino sites (see Taino Indian Sites).
Afternoon
Aim to arrive in Las Galeras in time for lunch. Try the food at El Marinique , which specializes in steaks and seafood, or at one of the other eateries around. Then it’s time to visit the beach itself, choosing a shady spot – but not one directly under a cluster of coconuts.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
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