A large swathe of territory extends down from the western outskirts of Santo Domingo to the Haitian border, incorporating some of the country’s most diverse and dramatic landscapes. The coastline contains a variety of beaches, ranging from remote and undeveloped coves to crowded weekend favorites. Inland, lush, irrigated farmland stands in stark contrast to some of the country’s driest desert terrain. Historic towns and cities dot this corner of the Dominican Republic, but its real appeal lies in its natural grandeur. The Sierra de Baoruco is an almost untouched wilderness of mountain rainforest; the Lago Enriquillo, famous for its crocodiles, is better known, but is isolated enough to inspire awe. Tourism has yet to change the character of this region, where the proximity of Haiti is keenly felt, but it’s only a matter of time.
At Parque Nacional de Isla Cabritos, it may be worth waiting to see if anyone else wants a boat trip in order to share the cost-
Swelteringly hot in the plains between sea and mountains, Azua de Compostela looks like an ordinary Dominican town, but it is one of the New World’s oldest cities. It was founded in 1504 by Diego de Valásquez, who went on to conquer Cuba. The old colonial settlement was ravaged by war and earthquakes, and the town was rebuilt away from the sea. There are some pretty painted wooden houses at a distance from the main road, but most visitors and locals prefer to head for the Playa Monte Río, a quiet and undeveloped beach with fabulous views over the Bahía de Ocoa and surrounding mountains.
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Few visitors make it to this deserted spot, a sweeping bay surrounded by rocky and prickly terrain. It’s named after eagles, but there’re more gulls, waders, and pelicans on display.
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Set among flat sugarcane-producing land, Baní is an industrious place, its relative wealth due to nearby coffee plantations, salt mining, and commerce. It is also renowned nationally for its particularly delicious mangoes, in season from May to July. Its most famous son is Máximo Gómez (see The Northwest), who with José Martí was the foremost champion of Cuban independence. His house, now containing a small museum, can be reached on foot from the pleasant Parque Central. Also worth a look is Baní’s local beach, Los Almendros, with rough sand but with restaurants and plenty of atmosphere at weekends.
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The charming fishing village, now the venue for an all-inclusive hotel, is situated close to a wonderful white-sand beach (see Playa Baoruco), behind which steep wooded hillsides tumble down towards the sea.
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The biggest town in the region, the port of Barahona is the gateway to the South-west’s natural attractions. A broad seaside boulevard runs the length of the town, and the narrow streets around the Parque Central have some nice old buildings. The advent of an international airport in the 1990s encouraged some tourist development, including a beach-side resort in the town itself. But few visitors confine themselves to Barahona, preferring to explore the coastline to the south and the two nearby national parks.
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The best restaurant in town, with delicious seafood and good service, in pleasant surroundings. Packed at lunchtime.
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A desolate expanse of gray sand and rocky bluffs, this empty beach (see Playa Cabo Rojo) shows the scars of bauxite extraction. But it’s a wildlife paradise for pelicans and other seabirds.
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Eat al fresco in a lovely setting on a hillside. The restaurant is open all day and is very busy during Dominican holidays (see Casa Bonita, Barahona).
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The tables at this friendly place with a family ambience, are set in the garden amid trees and flowers. The menu’s based mostly around goat and fish.
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Morning
Set off early from Barahona, taking the paved route via Vicente Noble, Tamayo and Galván to the village of La Descubierta . The road passes Haitian bateyes and dusty villages, and provides stunning views of the Sierra de Neiba. Aim to arrive at the Parque Nacional de Isla Cabritos, the lake’s official access point just outside La Descubierta, as early as possible and enquire if a boat will leave soon.
The boat trip takes half an hour each way, and you can wander around the rocky island looking for the tame iguanas, or wait for the return trip, which normally involves crocodile-spotting. A welcome cold drink is normally available back at the park office.
Energy permitting, head back to Postrer Río and look for signs to Las Caritas , a cave filled with Taino carvings that can be reached by a strenuous 10-minute climb. You could even try the natural swimming pool at La Descubierta, a cold sulfur spring. There are some rudimentary eating places here, but it makes sense to bring along some food and drink, especially water.
Afternoon
Return to Barahona around the lake’s loop road, passing the border town of Jimaní , Duvergé, and Cabral, getting a good view of the freshwater Laguna Rincón to your left.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
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