A large swathe of territory extends down from the western outskirts of Santo Domingo to the Haitian border, incorporating some of the country’s most diverse and dramatic landscapes. The coastline contains a variety of beaches, ranging from remote and undeveloped coves to crowded weekend favorites. Inland, lush, irrigated farmland stands in stark contrast to some of the country’s driest desert terrain. Historic towns and cities dot this corner of the Dominican Republic, but its real appeal lies in its natural grandeur. The Sierra de Baoruco is an almost untouched wilderness of mountain rainforest; the Lago Enriquillo, famous for its crocodiles, is better known, but is isolated enough to inspire awe. Tourism has yet to change the character of this region, where the proximity of Haiti is keenly felt, but it’s only a matter of time.
At Parque Nacional de Isla Cabritos, it may be worth waiting to see if anyone else wants a boat trip in order to share the cost-
Casual bar and restaurant overlooking Las Salinas. Popular with sailors for its seafood, burgers, and pasta.
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The small peninsula forming the southern edge of the Bahía de Las Calderas creates an attractive ecosystem, containing salt flats and the most extensive sand dunes in the Caribbean. A naval base is sited here, but visitors can drive through to reach the outpost of Las Salinas, where a hotel and restaurant caters exclusively to windsurfers. The working salt extraction plant is conspicuous through its huge white mountains of finished salt. But the most spectacular views are from the sandy hillsides facing out to the Caribbean.
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The park comprises the most southerly tip of the country, the Pedernales Peninsula, as well as Isla Beata, an uninhabited scrub-covered island. Covering more than 500 sq miles (1,293 sq km), this is the biggest of the national parks, comprising dry limestone studded with cacti and other desert vegetation. This terrain is home to a huge array of land and sea birds, iguanas, lizards, and bats. The best way to get a sense of its natural importance is to contact the national park office at the village of Oviedo, for the boat tours of Laguna Oviedo.
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Pedernales is quite literally the end of the track, the final Dominican outpost before crossing over into Haiti. This remote settlement of one-story concrete buildings huddled together, is hardly a conventional tourist destination. But the place is not without interest, especially on Mondays and Fridays when the no-man’s-land between the two countries is the scene of a large open-air market. The village’s beach is also worth a visit, and from here it’s usually easy to walk over the border.
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A favorite beach with residents of Santo Domingo and San Cristóbal, this strip of golden sand isn’t quiet, but it’s a good place for a drink and a meal.
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Another popular hangout for locals, and rather noisy, the beach does have a quieter end towards the headland and lighthouse, where the sand’s slightly darker and the sea rougher.
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One of the first beaches on the long and scenic road south of Barahona, this is a lovely and little-known stretch of wild coastline, backed by rugged cliffs and woods.
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Up in the hills from Cabral is a scientific enigma – a stretch of road that appears to run upwards, but in fact descends. Take off your handbrake and see.
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Large Dominican restaurant at Hotel Caribe on the Malecón. Enjoy the air-conditioning indoors or the cool terrace. Good value menú del día with seafood.
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Birthplace of the dictator Trujillo (see Trujillo (1891–1961)), this busy provincial center received a great deal of public money during his 30-year regime. It resulted in the construction of an impressive cathedral and surrounding public buildings as well as two nearby residences for Trujillo. The cathedral is certainly worth a visit in order to view the dictator’s ornate tomb, which was never used. More interesting are the caves at El Pomier (see El Pomier Caves) and the beaches at Palenque and Najayo, to the south of San Cristóbal.
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For a three-course meal and a beer for one including tax and service.
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