County Galway has a peculiar majesty and an awesome sense of its closeness to nature, stalwartly facing the imposing Atlantic Ocean. Even the area around the county town, Galway City, squeezed onto a strip of land between the expanse of Lough Corrib and the immense waters of Galway Bay, possesses that same inspiring quality. As well as its own charms, with good restaurants and charming pubs, it is a good base from which to explore the area. South of the city is a gentler, greener countryside. While a good deal of the fascination of this southern edge of Galway lies simply in the tranquil landscape, for lovers of literature much of the interest is also in the connection with the romantic Irish poet WB Yeats. Although not originally from this region, Yeats returned often in his thoughts and in his work to the myths and grandeur of western Ireland, and spent many years living at his Thoor Ballylee near Gort, south of Galway City. Pleasant, gentle cruises on the lakes are another attraction.
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This harbourside restaurant is certainly the best on the Aran Islands (where there is, admittedly, limited competition). Its seafood, caught the same day, must be the freshest in Ireland.
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The poignant folksong “The Fields of Athenry” (pronounced Athen-rye) gives little clue about this evocative reminder of the Anglo-Norman colonists. In 1211, Meiler de Bermingham made Athenry his seat, enclosed it with sturdy ramparts, built a little castle, and founded a Dominican Priory in 1241 where he and his descendants could be buried. Today, though damaged, much survives, together with a broken 15th-century cross erected in the central square.
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This family-run restaurant has earned itself a high reputation for Connemara lamb, Irish beef, and delicious fish from the nearby Atlantic.
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This country house and restaurant was once a gracious aristocratic home and has now earned itself international renown for both its food and atmosphere.
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Poised on the narrow strip between Lough Corrib and Lough Mask, the attractive village of Cong lies just across the Galway border in County Mayo. Cong Abbey was an important Augustinian community founded by the King of Connacht in 1128 and became a leading spiritual centre. Closed down during the Reformation, it fell into ruin. What survives remains majestic; the cloisters have been partly reconstructed.
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The woods, lakes and paths of this national park and wildlife preserve, with its red deer and red squirrels, were once the grounds of a great Georgian mansion, home of Lady Augusta Gregory (see Abbey and Peacock Theatres). She hosted the most famous novelists and playwrights of her day and the Irish Revival began here. Names carved on the Autograph Tree include Shaw, Synge, Sean O’Casey and many more. The house itself fell into ruin and was dismantled.
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Seafood, meat and game are the specialities of this excellent but unassuming family-run restaurant. It also has a large array of fine whiskeys.
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This restaurant is part of a country manor on the shores of Lough Corrib (famous for brown trout, which is on the menu in season).
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The pleasant, bustling regional capital started life as a fortress of the O’Connors of Connacht. Colonized in 1232 by Anglo-Normans, it became a prosperous seaport: some fine buildings survive, notably 16th-century Lynch’s Castle (now a bank), and 14th-century St Nicholas’s Church. A great atmosphere, with plenty of music and traditional shops.
Galway City
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An astonishing set of monastic ruins survives here. The original church established in AD 610 was enlarged over the centuries and replaced by a cathedral in the 14th century, though keeping many features of the older buildings, including a 10th-century door. Around it are a number of other intriguing 13th- and 14th-century ecclesiastical buildings. There’s also a Leaning Tower.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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