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The poignant folksong “The Fields of Athenry” (pronounced Athen-rye) gives little clue about this evocative reminder of the Anglo-Norman colonists. In 1211, Meiler de Bermingham made Athenry his seat, enclosed it with sturdy ramparts, built a little castle, and founded a Dominican Priory in 1241 where he and his descendants could be buried. Today, though damaged, much survives, together with a broken 15th-century cross erected in the central square.

The woods, lakes and paths of this national park and wildlife preserve, with its red deer and red squirrels, were once the grounds of a great Georgian mansion, home of Lady Augusta Gregory (see Abbey and Peacock Theatres). She hosted the most famous novelists and playwrights of her day and the Irish Revival began here. Names carved on the Autograph Tree include Shaw, Synge, Sean O’Casey and many more. The house itself fell into ruin and was dismantled.

An astonishing set of monastic ruins survives here. The original church established in AD 610 was enlarged over the centuries and replaced by a cathedral in the 14th century, though keeping many features of the older buildings, including a 10th-century door. Around it are a number of other intriguing 13th- and 14th-century ecclesiastical buildings. There’s also a Leaning Tower.

On the shores of Lough Corrib, this village has become a small resort area. Its chief prize, however, is Aughnanure Castle, beside the lake – a handsome remnant of a 16th-century tower-house of the O’Flaherties, the Connacht clan who terrified the ruling Anglo-Norman families of Galway.

Officially Irish-speaking, and with a Gaelic summer school, Spiddal makes a pleasant stop on the Galway Bay coast road. Several craft workers have set up shop in the Spiddal Craft Village, where you can see pottery, weaving, knitting and other skilled work in progress, or buy the finished goods.