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Regarded as the “capital” of Connemara, although hardly more than a village, this busy little resort lies among lovely green hills above Clifden Bay and at the foot of the Twelve Bens Mountains. A Georgian planned town built by John d’Arcy, it retains a certain character and style. At the end of summer, Clifden hosts the traditional Connemara Pony Show, which brings in hordes of horse-lovers.
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Five miles (8 km) of sheer cliffs rising as much as 650 ft (200 m) up from the pounding Atlantic, this is one of Europe’s grandest stretches of coastline. Take the cliff-edge footpath round to O’Brien’s Tower, which gives a stunning view.
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This early Christian site, founded by St Ciaran in the 6th century, draws tourists into Ireland’s often neglected Midlands. The grounds are atmospheric, especially on a grey Irish day, and include the ruins of a cathedral, eight churches (10th–13th-centuries), two round towers, three high crosses and dozens of early Christian grave slabs. The visitors’ centre offers an audio-visual show and exhibitions.
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Pronounced “Cove”, this 19th-century town boasts one of the world’s largest natural harbours. In its heyday, the town was a major commercial seaport as well as being the stop-over port for luxury passenger liners, including the Sirius, which made her maiden voyage from here. Cobh was also the last port of call for the Titanic before she sailed to her tragic end. The Queens-town Story is an interesting exhibition detailing the town’s maritime history. Particularly poignant is the section on the part Cobh played in the transportation of convicts to Australia in the 18th and 19th centuries.
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Poised on the narrow strip between Lough Corrib and Lough Mask, the attractive village of Cong lies just across the Galway border in County Mayo. Cong Abbey was an important Augustinian community founded by the King of Connacht in 1128 and became a leading spiritual centre. Closed down during the Reformation, it fell into ruin. What survives remains majestic; the cloisters have been partly reconstructed.
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Extending from Letterfrack village to the Twelve Bens, the park is a 5,000-acre conservation area of heath, bog and hills encompassing the grandest of Connemara’s landscapes. The Twelve Bens, a dozen high peaks rising from the heart of the western mountains, dominate the Connemara skyline. A visitors’ centre near the park entrance has a permanent exhibition on the flora, fauna, geology and history of the region.
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The woods, lakes and paths of this national park and wildlife preserve, with its red deer and red squirrels, were once the grounds of a great Georgian mansion, home of Lady Augusta Gregory (see Abbey and Peacock Theatres). She hosted the most famous novelists and playwrights of her day and the Irish Revival began here. Names carved on the Autograph Tree include Shaw, Synge, Sean O’Casey and many more. The house itself fell into ruin and was dismantled.
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Officially Ireland’s second city, built on either side of the River Lee, Cork is a true rival to Dublin according to the local residents, of which there are around 140,000. The picturesque quays both north and south of the river, linked by an array of bridges, offer spectacular views. The numerous waterways, narrow alleys and Georgian buildings, together with the balmy climate, often lend the city a more continental than Irish atmosphere.
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St Patrick supposedly climbed this black conical hill, one of Ireland’s most sacred sites, dedicated to Lugh, God of Light. It is considered a pious act to make the steep climb on the rough, cutting stones to the summit (which gives phenomenal views). For the annual July pilgrimage, many ascend in bare feet.
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At the heart of Derry (Londonderry) is a fascinating walled Plantation town, its 350-year-old fortifications almost intact. Free Derry Corner, where a wall is painted with the words “You Are Now Entering Free Derry”, is the most famous of the town’s many political murals.
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