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Modern Ardmore is a popular little beach resort, but the hill behind is the site of St Declan’s 5th-century monastery, probably the oldest in Ireland. Its many evocative remains (mostly dating from the 12th century) include St Declan’s Cathedral, a fine example of a high cross, and an impressive, 30-m (100-ft) round tower.
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The city where Queen Macha built her fortress some 3,000 years ago, Armagh has a curious role in Ulster’s religious divide. St Patrick based himself here, and the city is considered the ecclesiastical capital of both communities, with a Catholic and a Protestant cathedral, each dedicated to Patrick. The town also has a good museum and astronomy centre.
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The poignant folksong “The Fields of Athenry” (pronounced Athen-rye) gives little clue about this evocative reminder of the Anglo-Norman colonists. In 1211, Meiler de Bermingham made Athenry his seat, enclosed it with sturdy ramparts, built a little castle, and founded a Dominican Priory in 1241 where he and his descendants could be buried. Today, though damaged, much survives, together with a broken 15th-century cross erected in the central square.
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This market town and fishing port is named after its beautiful situation at the head of Bantry Bay. Bantry House, commanding an outstanding position with views across the bay, has been owned by the White family since 1739. For maritime enthusiasts there is a small museum in the stable, examining the history of the French Armada, which was scuttled here in 1796.
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The largest of the western peninsulas has something for everyone, with its pretty villages, beaches and mountains. The two ranges here are the Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains. Tortuous bends wend their way to the summits, but it’s worth it for the view on fine days. If you are interested in wildlife, take the cable car across to Dursey Island, with its sea bird colonies.
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Northern Ireland’s capital is a vibrant Victorian city with good shops, pubs, museums and galleries. Call at the Belfast Welcome Centre for details of the attractions in and around the city.
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Despite a perfect Austenstyle setting, there was no sense or sensibility in the actions of the Earl of Belvedere. He began the house in 1740, spent his life fighting his brothers and built the Gothic Jealous Wall to block the view of his sibling’s house. He also imprisoned his wife for 31 years, suspecting she’d slept with one of them. Visitors, however, are free to roam the beautiful gardens and the shore of Lough Ennell.
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Although largely dominated by the castle and its grounds, the town of Birr has much to offer visitors. Its beautiful Georgian style has been lovingly preserved, many of the buildings retaining their original fanlights and door panelling.
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It’s rare that a castle plays second fiddle to its surroundings. Here, however, the gardens, covering more than 150 acres and containing 2,000 species of rare trees and shrubs, take the prize. Spring blossoms and autumn foliage are mesmerizing. The grounds are also home to the Earl of Rosse’s 72-inch (180-cm) telescope. Built in the 1840s this was once the world’s largest.
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It is really the Blarney Stone, believed to have been brought to Ireland during the Crusades, that brings visitors flocking here in their masses. Legend has it that whoever kisses the stone will be given the gift of eloquent speech. The castle itself dates from the mid-15th century and the Banqueting Hall and Great Hall are fine examples of architecture of the period.
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