Connemara – the rocky mountainous countryside of western County Galway – is almost entirely uncultivated, a strange wilderness of water and stone, peat bog, headlands and barren hills. Along its shores, the Atlantic eats savagely into the land, making spectacular inlets and bays. Seemingly uninhabitable, in pre-famine days Connemara was crowded with poverty-stricken farmers, victims of the Protestant Ascendancy that had driven them from their farms across the Shannon. Thousands of rough dry-stone walls criss-cross the bare hills, enclosing their tiny abandoned fields. The famine wiped out most of Connemara’s human life, and the memory of that disaster lingers sadly in the glorious landscape. The poignant scenery continues across Killary Fjord into County Mayo, where – as well as wide open spaces of bog, heath, mountain and lake – there are appealing small towns, a traditional way of life, and much to see.
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Using only local produce, this country house restaurant has earned itself renown for its wonderful steaks, lobster and oysters.
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An award-winning fishermen’s pub serves a good choice of seafood dishes.
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By far the best place to eat on Achill Island, Calveys has an air of understated elegance and serves local fish and shellfish, free range poultry, organic vegetables and game.
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Preserved for thousands of years under a blanket of peat bog, the Céide site consists of walled fields cultivated in Stone Age times, together with stone ruins. All is explained by the excellent guided tours offered by the visitors’ centre.
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Dramatic Clare Island was the stronghold of Grace O’Malley, or Granuaile, whose little fortress still stands, as does the ruined abbey where she is buried. Inishbofin has a green, lonely beauty. Home of the O’Flaherty clan, and a hideaway of Grace O’Malley, it was taken by Cromwell. Both have small populations and prehistoric ruins.
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Regarded as the “capital” of Connemara, although hardly more than a village, this busy little resort lies among lovely green hills above Clifden Bay and at the foot of the Twelve Bens Mountains. A Georgian planned town built by John d’Arcy, it retains a certain character and style. At the end of summer, Clifden hosts the traditional Connemara Pony Show, which brings in hordes of horse-lovers.
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Extending from Letterfrack village to the Twelve Bens, the park is a 5,000-acre conservation area of heath, bog and hills encompassing the grandest of Connemara’s landscapes. The Twelve Bens, a dozen high peaks rising from the heart of the western mountains, dominate the Connemara skyline. A visitors’ centre near the park entrance has a permanent exhibition on the flora, fauna, geology and history of the region.
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St Patrick supposedly climbed this black conical hill, one of Ireland’s most sacred sites, dedicated to Lugh, God of Light. It is considered a pious act to make the steep climb on the rough, cutting stones to the summit (which gives phenomenal views). For the annual July pilgrimage, many ascend in bare feet.
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Affordable, friendly and relaxed restaurant and bar on the quay, beside the River Moy. Choose from bar meals (great chowder) or a full menu featuring modern Irish cuisine.
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One of the finest restaurants in Connacht serving traditional Irish offerings, modern cuisine and delicious seafood concoctions using the freshest of ingredients.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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