When Dublin was developed in the 18th century, plans for the north side of the River Liffey included a range of elegant terraces and squares designed to attract the city’s élite. A downturn in the economy left the grand plan incomplete, although O’Connell Street and Parnell and Mountjoy Squares remain evidence of what might have been. The area boasts some of the city’s most beautiful buildings, such as the Custom House and the Four Courts; three theatres, the Abbey, Peacock and the Gate, produce drama of worldwide acclaim; and the city’s great literary tradition is celebrated in the Dublin Writers’ Museum and James Joyce Cultural Centre. Although not as self-consciously stylish as the Southside, development plans are trying to rectify this with the revamp of areas such as Smithfield market (see Smithfield).
Chapter One Restaurant’s theatre menu allows you to have a first and main course pre-performance and then return for dessert.-
Just around the corner from the Abbey Theatre (see Abbey and Peacock Theatres). There’s a choice of the main restaurant or the simpler Pasta Bar.
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Morning
For an unusual breakfast head for the Winding Stair Bookshop café, then browse its wonderful second-hand stock. Next, aim for O’Connell Street and the GPO, where you can post your cards and view the historic bullet marks, and up to the Gate Theatre to book tickets for the evening’s performance.
Be at the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art by 10am to have time to view the collection, then walk down to the Dublin Writers’ Museum. Have lunch in the café before enjoying the literary artifacts. As you leave the museum, go downstairs to Chapter One and book a table for dinner.
Afternoon
After lunch, walk around the corner to the James Joyce Cultural Centre, then retrace your steps to the west side of Parnell Square and the Rotunda Hospital to have a look at the Baroque chapel.
For a bit of retail therapy, head for Henry Street , one of the city’s main shopping areas. Continue down St Mary’s Lane and up Bow Street to the Old Jameson Distillery for a tour and tot of whiskey.
Walk along the river past the floodlit Custom House to enjoy a civilized pre-theatre drink at The Gresham hotel.
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The Irish National Theatre was founded at the Abbey Theatre by the Gaelic Revival Movement led by Lady Augusta Gregory and WB Yeats and first opened its doors in 1904. From the outset it had a radical reputation, putting on revolutionary plays such as Sean O’Casey’s The Plough and the Stars . The theatre then went into decline, before being gutted by fire in 1951. It reopened in 1966 as the Abbey and Peacock Theatres. The work performed at the Peacock is more experimental, while the Abbey stages conventional productions and new works.
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No prizes for decor but the atmosphere is informal and the food always good.
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Warm colours, comfortable seating and courteous service set the tone. Excellent “theatre” dinner (see Gate Theatre) and Irish and French cuisine.
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This multilevelled open-plan eating and drinking place opens onto Smithfield’s cobbled square. Good bar food.
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The vaulted tearooms of this department store serve a lunch menu of salads, soup and sandwiches, but afternoon tea is their speciality.
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This magnificent building dominates the northside riverbank. Designed by James Gandon, the 114 m (375 ft) long façade is flanked by pavilioned arcades adorned with the Irish coats of arms. The 14 heads decorating the building represent Ireland’s rivers. Restored in 1991, the building is now used as government offices.
Custom House
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A mixture of faded parchments and a collection of portraits make up this original little museum. The Georgian proportions of the house are seen at their best on the upper floors, with a grand Gallery of Writers. Downstairs, a taped commentary takes you through Irish literary history, accompanied by photographs, correspondence and first edition works.
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At the back of the museum (see Dublin Writers’ Museum) this cheerful café has filling dishes as well as lighter snacks.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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