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British Airways, Aer Lingus and low-cost airlines such as Ryanair run regular flights to Dublin and all major Irish cities. They depart from London’s five airports (Heathrow, City, Gatwick, Luton and Stansted) and from 15 other UK cities including Birmingham, Leeds and Glasgow, as well as the Isle of Man and the Channel Islands.

Flights from most major cities in Europe go direct to Dublin, although some connections are seasonal. Out of season flights are via London, Amsterdam or Paris. All travellers from Australasia have to fly to Dublin via Europe.

Aer Lingus and Delta Air Lines fly direct from various locations in the USA to Dublin, and to Shannon in the southwest.

Most airlines now have their own websites for booking flights and will have details of last- minute bargains and general availability. Ryan-air has some very cheap deals, with flights from some UK and European cities for as little as €12.

Dublin Airport is 12 km (7 miles) from the city centre and has recently been enlarged and upgraded, easing overcrowding.

Journey time varies, depending on traffic – morning and evening rush hours are best avoided. Airlink is an express bus service between the airport and the city’s main bus and rail stations. Buses run every 10 minutes from early morning to midnight; journey time is 40 minutes. Air-coach (5:30am–10:30pm) picks up at various points in the city, costing €6. Tickets for both can be bought on board. Taxis cost around €18–20.

Irish Ferries operate a cruise and fast ferry service from Holyhead in Wales to Dublin Port; Stena Line operates its High Speed Superferry from Holyhead to Dun Laoghaire and a cruise ferry to Dublin Port. Crossing time is between 90 minutes and 3.5 hours. Norse Merchant Ferries runs a service from Liverpool to Dublin Port. There are good transport links to the centre from both ports.

Brittany Ferries runs a cruise service from Roscoff (22 hours) in France to Cork (see Around Cork).

Various companies run services to Dublin and other Irish cities. Bus Eireann and Eurolines offer a day and night service from London via Holyhead. Journey time is 11–13 hours.

Dublin Bus runs a comprehensive network around the city, every 10–20 minutes from 6am to 11:30pm. All buses operate an autofare system so make sure you have change or a travel pass. One-day, three-day, five-day, weekly or monthly travel passes are available from tourist centres and some news-agents. Nitelink Buses operate every 20 minutes from 12:30am to 2am Monday to Wednesday, and from 12:30am to 4:30am Thursday to Saturday from Westmore-land Street, D’Olier Street, College Green, St Stephen’s Green and O’Connell Street. Travel passes are not valid on these buses, which have a flat charge of €4–6. Green and cream bus stops are for the Hop-OnHop-Off tourist buses and are situated at 16 major tourist points around the city.

DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) is an electric train service covering 28 stations from picturesque Malahide and Howth to the north of the city to Greystones in County Wicklow, with a few city centre stops. The last train leaves the town centre at 11:30pm.

A new light railway system is currently under construction in Dublin. The first three lines (A: Tallaght to Abbey Street; B: Sandyford to St Stephen’s Green; and C: Abbey Street to Connolly Station) are due to open in 2004. A fourth line, B1, from Sandyford to Cherrywood, and a fifth, from Connolly Station to Docklands, are in the pipeline.

The centre of Dublin is compact and easy to walk around, and increasing numbers of streets are being pedestrianized.

Taxi ranks can be found at the airport, main stations, large hotels and a few designated areas around the city. Fares are metered, with the base rate around €3. Taxis can be hailed in the street.

All the main car rental companies have desks at the airport and in the city. A full driving licence is required and age restriction is generally between 23 and 70 years. Rental usually includes unlimited mileage and third party fire and theft insurance.

City and town speed limits are 50 kmph, outskirts are 80 kmph, with 100 kmph on open roads and 120 kmph on motorways. Speed cameras are in frequent use and on-the-spot fines can be issued by the police. Road signs come in both English and Irish and kilometres and miles.

Most rental cars now take unleaded fuel, but leaded and diesel are also available. The nearest petrol stations to the centre are at Ballsbridge, Donnybrook and Usher’s Quay.

There is plenty of parking available in the centre, with electronic signs at various strategic points giving up-to-the-minute availability of spaces. Clamping is in operation throughout Dublin for illegal parking.

The main tourist office in Dublin is very helpful with information on tourist sights, hotel accommodation and any other visitors’ questions about the country.

There are reductions on entrance tickets to many historic sites and attractions, on some transport, and even on some accommodation and travel packages within Ireland, for students, children, the unemployed, senior citizens and families. Carry appropriate photo ID. To visit several sights at a discount, buy a Heritage Card (see Sightseeing at a Discount).

Most shops and businesses are open 9am to 5pm, Monday to Friday. Banks open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm (sometimes until 5pm on Thursday); post offices Monday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am to 12:30pm. Pubs open Monday to Thursday 10:30am to 11:30pm, Friday to Saturday 10:30am to 12:30am, Sunday 12:30pm to 11pm.

Ireland is fully online, with cyber cafés in most towns, and several in Dublin. Charges are generally around €2 for 15 minutes. Public libraries also offer Internet access. Most major attractions have their own websites.

Ireland has one of the highest percentages of driving fatalities in Europe. Drink-driving is a problem and speed limits are often ignored, though a new “penalty points” system is improving the situation. Congestion in towns is high, but rural roads are relatively traffic-free. Even main roads may have only two lanes – pull onto the hard-shoulder to let others overtake. Speed limits are 120 kmph (74mph) on motorways, 100 kmph (62 mph) on main roads, 50 kmph (31 mph) in towns. Drive on the left. Yellow lines indicate parking restrictions. All types of fuel are available.

Ireland uses Europe’s international pictorial system of road signs. Confusing signs that give two alternative routes to the same place without stating the distances are commonplace in rural Ireland. When given, distances may be approximate. Officially, the Republic uses kilometres (green signs), but many roadsigns are in miles (white signs). Often, place names are given in Irish and English.

The weather in Ireland is wet and mild all year round, but generally without extremes. It rarely freezes except on uplands, while summer can see some hot spells.

Britain and the US both have embassies in Dublin (see Sources of Information). Most other countries have an embassy or consulate in the city – consult the Yellow Pages .

Service charges of 10–15 per cent are added to bills in hotels and restaurants. Tip taxi drivers around 10 per cent, porters 50 cents or €1. Bar staff need not be tipped.

There are very strict drink-driving laws in Ireland and you can be stopped and breathalysed at any time. Within the city, most places can be reached on foot, and restaurants are very happy to call cabs.

It is unwise to wander around any badly lit areas of any city at night, and Dublin is no exception. It is also advisable not to walk around on your own late at night. There are areas of the city that have a reputation for being more dangerous than others – the northside is a bit rough after dark, so stick to the main thoroughfares such as O’Connell Street and the quays. On the southside, around Dolphin’s Barn, beyond Portobello, is a notorious area for drug-related crime, so avoid that both day and night, and similarly Summerhill off Gardiner Street on the northside. However neither of these areas has anything to draw the tourist so you are unlikely to find yourself there unless lost.

It is always a mistake to carry valuables around with you when you’re sightseeing, so leave them in the hotel safe. If you’re driving, never leave anything visible in the car to tempt a break-in. Like any capital city, beware of pickpockets. Don’t put temptation in their way by leaving bags open and valuables visible.

The traffic has got much worse in Dublin over the last few years and the rush hour lasts from about 8–9:30am and 5–7pm so allow extra time if you need to travel between these times. This is particularly important on the route to the airport, on which traffic problems are currently exacerbated by the building of the Port Tunnel.

Dublin’s pub culture is a major part of its charm and character, but when pubs become crowded they are a haven for petty thieves. Keep your money in your bag and your bag on your lap or where you can see it at all times. Even better, wear a money belt.

It is best to avoid drinking in hotel bars unless money is no object. Prices are always higher than in local bars and pubs, and a gratuity may be added.

There has been a problem with a lack of taxis around the city for late-night revellers. If you are at a restaurant or club ask the waiter to call for one rather than trying your luck on the street. Recent deregulation may improve the situation and hopefully bring more cabs onto the street.

Dublin’s traffic wardens are very sharp and quite thick on the ground, so make sure you don’t overrun your time as you’ll be fined immediately. Clampers are also about all over the city, and it is time-consuming and expensive to get released.

From January to May the Six Nations Cup is played out between Italy, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, France and England with matches in the various countries. These weekends are best avoided, unless you’re a rugby fan – hotel prices increase and the city is overcrowded.

Most of the properties owned and run by Duchas, the State Heritage Service, are reasonably priced, while all national museums, galleries and libraries are free. There is a minimal charge for entry to some city churches but around the country they are generally free.

Sights and museums are either privately or state-run so discounts vary from site to site. On average, the concessions given for children, over 60s and students work out at about one third of the price of the full adult ticket. If you are planning to visit a number of historic sights, it is worth investing in a Heritage Card costing around €20 for adults and €7.50 for children and students. It is valid for one year from the date of purchase. You can buy the card at the first Duchas site you visit or send for one from their website. The National Trust offers a similar deal for properties in Northern Ireland.

Youth and student discounts are available on presentation of an International Student ID Card (ISIC) for some museums, and rail and bus travel. Train discount cards include Irish Rail’s Irish Rover card, but you need to be covering quite a distance to make it worthwhile. The most useful in Ireland is the combined bus and rail pass, the Irish Explorer Ticket. It covers all Intercity train and bus lines and the DART in Dublin (see DART).

There is no shortage of these in the city, including McDonald’s and Burger King, Beshoffs for fish and chips and a limitless supply of cafés and juice bars. Most small towns have a take-away of some description and garages and Spar shops throughout the country usually have a hot food counter. You can also get take-aways from some supermarkets.

This is a cheap and fast way of getting about and Dublin is small enough for this to be a sensible option. However, few companies now rent bikes, due to insurance costs. Irish Cycling Safaris is based in Belfield university campus. Charges range from about €18 per day to €80 per week. Bikes are easy to steal so make sure you have a good padlock and chain.

Ireland’s public transport network is not brilliant (see Getting Around Dublin). Trains link the main towns and cities but getting from one regional town to another is not easy. On intercity routes it is much cheaper to go by bus.

There are numerous hostels around the country. Many of the Dublin ones are of a good quality and you can get single and even double rooms at very low prices.

The full Irish breakfast in hotels is a huge affair and will set you up for the day.

Travelling out of season and avoiding special weekends will save you money. Prices are hiked up during Rugby International weekends (see International Rugby Weekends), St Patrick’s weekend (see St Patrick’s Day Celebrations) and other bank holidays. In winter there are excellent hotel deals.

Ireland is world famous for its linen and there are some beautiful, original designs to be found. There is usually a selection on offer in most tourist shops. The choice includes embroidered bedcovers and tablecloths, linen pillowcases and duvet covers. At the less grand end of the scale, small embroidered handkerchiefs make good gifts and tea towels can be found everywhere.

Ireland is justly renowned for its terrific jerseys, and the Aran is the most famous. It can be fun to buy them in the west of Ireland if you’re travelling around, although the range is probably better in Dublin. The larger department stores, specialist jersey outlets and tourist shops are the best places to try.

There are a number of excellent contemporary pottery companies available in most of the larger department stores such as Brown Thomas or Avoca Handweavers. But search out craft shops for original pieces by individuals.

One of the most famous tweed-producing areas is Donegal where tweed can be bought either readymade as clothing or off the bale as lengths of cloth. Hats and waistcoats are popular and come in a variety of tweeds. Most smaller items are widely available in tourist shops, but for the full tweed suit you’d be better off with the specialist. Try Kevin and Howlin.

You can find Celtic jewellery in some form or another all over the city, but be careful of the quality. For the best in traditional and contemporary jewellery go to Whichcraft in Temple Bar (see Cow’s Lane). This will give you an idea of top quality and prices. If you’re feeling adventurous you can commission a piece. There is a huge variety on offer all over the country, from ancient Celtic to modern designs.

Enamel brooch

The penny whistle is one of the most commonly found traditional Irish musical instruments and cheap replicas can be found all over the city. Enquire in a proper music shop if you are looking for a decent one. The bodhrán is a goatskin handheld drum; this too is widely reproduced but the good ones need to be specially sought out. Handmade harps are a particular speciality in Dublin and Mayo.

Irish smoked salmon is world famous and is widely exported. Much of it is farmed these days so seek out wild salmon; the taste is far superior. Wrights of Howth has outlets at the airport and at Howth, but most fishmongers stock wild salmon.

Jamesons (see Old Jameson Distillery) is probably the best known Irish brand and is a fine smooth blend; Bushmills is also a popular whiskey produced in the north. For everyday whiskey drinking the average Irish person would probably settle for Powers – an altogether rougher experience.

Waterford Crystal is the best known producer of glassware in Ireland (see Waterford Crystal Factory) but other quality producers exist. Galway Irish Crystal and Tipperary Crystal are two contenders, with Jerpoint Glass tending towards contemporary design.

Allied Irish Bank (AIB), the Bank of Ireland, the Ulster Bank, the National Irish Bank, and the TSB are the five retail banks in the Republic. They are open Monday to Friday, 10am to 4pm. ATMs (cash-points) are located outside most banks in the city, and are the fastest and cheapest way to get local currency, drawing money directly from your account, if you belong to a co-operating bank. All UK cashcards can be used at these machines.

Ireland joined the European Monetary Union in 1999, with 11 other EU countries, and the euro has been the sole legal tender since early 2002. Coin denominations are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, while notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. There are 100 cents to 1 euro.

Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted cards; American Express and Diners Club less so. You can withdraw cash from ATMs using credit cards. Travellers’ cheques are still the safest way to carry money but the rise of ATMs is fast supplanting the need for them.

For all foreign currencies outside of the EMU, the banks offer the best rates of exchange. Bureaux de change rates vary but they are likely to be better than hotel rates if the banks are closed. Some department stores offer exchange facilities.

Most post offices open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1pm, 2:15pm to 5pm on Saturdays. The General Post Office in O’Connell Street (see General Post Office) is open all day, seven days a week, but stamps can also be purchased from some newsagents and shops. Post boxes in Ireland are green. The easiest way to receive mail in Dublin is to have it sent to your hotel but a poste restante service is also available from major post offices.

The majority of phone booths are controlled by Telecom Eireann (Eircom). Public pay-phones are easy to find and the wording around the top of each booth indicates whether it takes coins, phonecards or credit cards – most in Dublin are now card-operated. The cheapest time to make calls is after 6pm and at weekends. Calls made from hotels can be expensive.

Pre-paid phonecards, available in several denominations, are useful for long distance calls. These, as well as card-credits for mobile phones, can be bought at newsagents, post offices, supermarkets and other retail outlets.

You can find an Internet café in most areas of Dublin and some hotels also offer Internet facilities. Failing that, try the nearest public library or post office.

The Republic of Ireland has six national daily papers and five Sunday papers. Quality dailies include the Irish Times , the Irish Independent and the Examiner . Ireland’s daily tabloid is the Star and the evening paper is the Evening Herald . All British papers are on sale throughout Dublin and larger newsagents stock international newspapers.

Dial 999 or 112 in an emergency and you will be connected to the service you require – police, fire, ambulance or coastguard.

The police force in the Irish Republic is called the Garda Siochana . An individual male police officer is called a garda and a female police officer is called a bean garda .

Police car

Beaumont, St James’s and St Vincent’s hospitals all have a 24-hour accident and emergency department. Dublin Dental Hospital serves emergency dental needs and the Eye and Ear Royal Victoria Hospital has an out-patient surgery every day.

EU visitors can claim free medical treatment in the Republic of Ireland if they have a form E111 from their own country, available at post offices. To avoid paying for any treatments or prescribed medicines in the event of serious illness, you will need to show your E111 and some identification, such as a driving licence or passport. Make sure that the doctor treating you knows you have an E111 form. Visitors from outside the EU are advised to take out their own accident and health insurance before travelling or be willing to pay for treatment received.

An extensive range of medical supplies is available over the counter at pharmacies but many medicines can only be obtained with a prescription from a local doctor. If you have, or are likely to have, any special medical needs it is worth having a letter from your own doctor giving the generic name of any medication you might require. There is a late night pharmacy in O’Connell Street.

For emergency dental treatment you can go to the Dublin Dental Hospital in Lincoln Place. They also have an after-hours answering service giving appropriate information. Conor Gallagher dentist is happy to deal with visitor emergencies.

Street crime does exist in Dublin, as in any capital city, but sensible precautions should be sufficient to keep you out of trouble. Avoid back streets or poorly lit areas at night. Don’t carry around obviously expensive equipment, which will draw attention. If you are unlucky enough to be mugged or attacked, inform the police straight away.

To avoid theft, don’t leave things unattended in restaurants or galleries. If you have a car, lock everything in the boot (trunk) where it cannot be seen.

If you have any property stolen, report it to the police immediately – you cannot make an insurance claim without the police report. The main bus and rail stations have lost property offices.