“A dream of Manhattan, arising from the South China Sea.” For succinctness, modern travel writer Pico Iyer’s description of Hong Kong has yet to be bettered. From opium port to Cold War enclave to frenetic financial capital, Hong Kong has never been boring. This is the hedonistic engine room of cultural fusion: East meets West in high style, and the results astonish and delight. Prepare to experience one of the most dramatic urban environments ever conceived.
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In a decisive move during the First Opium War between China and Britain, Captain Charles Elliot of the British Royal Navy lands on Hong Kong Island and plants the Union Jack on January 25. The 8,000-odd locals seem to take it in their stride, but China and Britain continue to fight over other Chinese trading cities. The 1842 Treaty of Nanking cedes Hong Kong Island to Britain.
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The good times are rolling in Hong Kong, where the population has now swelled to more than 86,000. The island is becoming cramped, however, and after a series of further skirmishes between Britain and China, the Kowloon Peninsula and Stonecutter’s Island are ceded to Britain.
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Britain digs in, turning Hong Kong into a mighty fort. Lyemun at the eastern end of the island bristles with guns and the world’s first wire-guided torpedo. Breathing space and water supplies are assured when on July 1, the 99-year lease of the New Territories is signed in Peking.
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Expats and locals enjoy food with a strong German influence and evening jazz sessions.
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Hong Kong has guns galore defending the sea, but the Japanese come by land. They have little trouble breaching the aptly named Gin Drinkers Line – a motley string of pillboxes. Hong Kong is surrendered two days before Christmas, beginning a brutal three-year occupation.
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The territory’s economic miracle begins to unfold, as incoming refugees from China provide an eager workforce, and British rule keeps things on an even keel. Hong Kong’s transformation into a manufacturing centre begins.
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The Sino-British Joint Declaration is promulgated, after years of secret talks between Margaret Thatcher and Deng Xiaoping. Deng coins the phrase “one country, two systems” to quell fears.
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Handover night on 30 June is widely regarded as an anticlimax after years of anticipation. The media focuses on soggy Union Jacks, last governor Chris Patten’s tears, Prince Charles and his yacht, and Jiang Zemin’s triumphant toast. The following dawn sees armoured cars rolling across the border.
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Asia’s economic “tigers” are humbled as years of living on borrowed money finally take their toll. Hong Kong is not as badly hit as some countries, but the financial crisis bites nonetheless.
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Offering significantly smarter and only slightly pricier long-stay accommodation than next door’s Garden View. The location is excellent; the views to the city and harbour good. Maid service, free local calls, use of gym, satellite and cable TV, kitchenette and Central shuttle bus are all included in the price.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges.
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Kwan Tai FestivalKwan Tai is the God of War and the patron god of the Hong Kong police - and, interestingly, gangsters. This dedicated festival at the Man Mo Temple takes place on the 24th day of the sixth moon. Read more
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Seven Sisters FestivalThe Seven Sisters Festival for unmarried girls and young lovers is a major date in the Chinese calendar and a spectacular event in Hong Kong. The focal point is Lovers' Rock in Wan Chai, but there... Read more
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Festival of the Hungry GhostsAccording to ancient Chinese tradition, on the 15th day of the seventh moon, the gates of Hades burst open, unleashing restless spirits, or "Hungry Ghosts". In Hong Kong, offerings to the ghosts... Read more
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International Arts CarnivalBiased towards kids and families but open to all, Hong Kong's six-week arts carnival covers a huge range of performing and visual arts. Around 200,000 people attend the 400 performances at major... Read more











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