“A dream of Manhattan, arising from the South China Sea.” For succinctness, modern travel writer Pico Iyer’s description of Hong Kong has yet to be bettered. From opium port to Cold War enclave to frenetic financial capital, Hong Kong has never been boring. This is the hedonistic engine room of cultural fusion: East meets West in high style, and the results astonish and delight. Prepare to experience one of the most dramatic urban environments ever conceived.
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Perhaps the developers figured “Central Plaza” had more cachet than “Wan Chai Plaza”, or perhaps Wan Chai is more central than Central if you’re talking about the mid-point of the waterfront. Anyway, this is Hong Kong’s second tallest building (after the new IFC Tower) at 374 m (1,227 ft), and has a viewing platform.
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Confusingly, this is in Wan Chai, not Central. At 78 storeys, it is two less than The Centre, but at 374 m (1,227 ft), it’s taller. It’s also the world’s tallest reinforced concrete building.
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Central’s futuristic office towers and concrete canyons give way to the low-rise charm of antique shops, galleries and bars the further west you go, ending up in Western’s archetypal Chinese shopping streets and docksides. A must. (see Hong Kong Island – Northwest)
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A decent hotel in the heart of Shenzhen with spacious rooms, cable TV, pool, sauna, gym and high-rise karaoke club.
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This is virtually Hong Kong’s national dish. The name literally means “blacken and burn”, but it’s neither. The tender fillets of pork are roasted and glazed in honey and spices, and hung in the windows of specialist roast meat shops.Cha siu isclassically served thinly sliced, with steamed rice and strips of vegetables.
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Cheap, sturdy woks, steamers, choppers and pretty much everything else you might desire for the well-equipped kitchen.
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A delightful place to learn more about Chaozhou cuisine, which deserves just as much exposure as its Cantonese cousin. The staff are helpful, and there is even a shark’s skin soup to sample.
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Primo people-watching along groovy Knutsford Terrace, one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets.
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Another of the new-ish spots that have sprung up in vibrant Sai Kung Town. It’s more sophisticated than some of its competitors, but rather boisterous if the soccer or rugby are on the television.
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With Chen being the most common family name in the area, it’s no surprise that the many groupings of local Chens constructed a suitably vast temple complex in the 1890s. It’s particularly worth a look if you haven’t visited any of the ancestral halls in the New Territories of Hong Kong. The most impressive feature is the ornate ceramic friezes adorning the roof, which depict legendary beasts. There are also displays (some of admittedly patchy quality) of jade, bone and other local crafts, some for sale. Head to the leafy courtyards for peace and shade.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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