“A dream of Manhattan, arising from the South China Sea.” For succinctness, modern travel writer Pico Iyer’s description of Hong Kong has yet to be bettered. From opium port to Cold War enclave to frenetic financial capital, Hong Kong has never been boring. This is the hedonistic engine room of cultural fusion: East meets West in high style, and the results astonish and delight. Prepare to experience one of the most dramatic urban environments ever conceived.
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While in TST, if you feel one more whisper of “Copy watch? Tailor?” may provoke you to irrational violence, then venture through the park gates, find a well-shaded bench and watch the world go by. There’s a big swimming pool (reputed to be something of a gay cruising zone), an aviary and a pond featuring flamingos and other aquatic birdlife.
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Not quite up to the standards of its Hong Kong Island counterpart, perhaps, but the Kowloon Shangri-La offers luxury at a significant discount to its sister. The Horizon Club tariff includes butler service and club lounge.
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One of Hong Kong’s most picturesque parks began life in 1847 as a Chinese fort. A legal oversight by the British left the fort under Chinese control after the New Territories were leased to Britain. It was levelled during World War II, and a labyrinthine ghetto called the Walled City sprang up in its place. This bizarre place quickly became a magnet for triads, drug dealers, heroin addicts, pornographers and rats the size of small dogs (see New Kowloon). It was pulled down in 1992 and replaced by the park. A display of photographs in the almshouse near the entrance tells the story.
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Vegetarians unable to face another helping of the slop and swill that passes for much animal-free cuisine will praise the creator for Kung Tak Lam. This light and airy Shanghainese does things with mere vegetables that could not be done, could not even be imagined, by most vegetarian restaurants elsewhere.
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This new happening place has pool tables, flat-screen TVs, and live bands at the weekends. Warning: the Xtreme cocktail can easily serve four.
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The studio and one- and two-bedroom apartments are furnished with TV, fridge, cooker and oven. There’s no gym or pool. but the park nearby has a public pool.
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No designer labels – unless they’re fake. What you’ll find here is inexpensive women’s clothing from lingerie to shoes. There’s a decent selection of jeans, cheap food and knick-knacks galore. (see Ladies Market)
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The term “ladies” is somewhat out of date, as there’s plenty more than women’s clothing here. The shopping area consists of three parallel streets: Fa Yuen Street, crammed mostly with sports goods and trainer shops; Tung Choi Street (the former ladies market); and Sa Yeung Choi Street, specializing in consumer electronics. Market stall prices are cheap, and shop prices are better than those on Hong Kong Island. The crowds can be tiring, though, especially on hot days.
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Chinese bread is shaped into buns, not loaves, and steamed rather than baked – giving it a beautifully soft and fluffy quality (no gritty whole grains here). There are many varieties of sweet bun, butlai wong bau is the reigning favourite, the kind of treat that children will clamour for. These buns are filled with milk, eggs, coconut and sugar. Try them piping hot on a cold winter morning.
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The restaurants display the subject of their menus live and swimming in huge outdoor fish tanks. You’ll see some edible leviathans here from monster grouper to giant lobsters and an absorbing array of other fidgeting crustacea and teeming sealife.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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