“A dream of Manhattan, arising from the South China Sea.” For succinctness, modern travel writer Pico Iyer’s description of Hong Kong has yet to be bettered. From opium port to Cold War enclave to frenetic financial capital, Hong Kong has never been boring. This is the hedonistic engine room of cultural fusion: East meets West in high style, and the results astonish and delight. Prepare to experience one of the most dramatic urban environments ever conceived.
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Lying on the far western coast of Lantau, the pretty village of Tai O is a trek from Mui Wo but it’s worth the effort. Sitting in a tidal estuary, this is one of the last places in Hong Kong where you can see the traditional stilt housing of southern Chinese fishing villages. Some are as small as dolls’ houses. For an authentic Hong Kong consumable, buy a jar of shrimp paste, a powerful type of fish sauce created by fermenting shrimp and spices in a barrel in the sun. It’s actually much better than it sounds.
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The chapel, next to a dilapidated old dairy farm, is open to visitors willing to observe the silence of the monastery. Apart from that, there’s not much to see at the monastery itself, but it’s a good excuse for a gentle woodland walk to or from Discovery Bay. The monastery is also served by a ferry pier with infrequent Kaido services to Discovery Bay and the island of Peng Chau (see Peng Chau), which has many seafood restaurants.
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Steaks are cooked to perfection by an owner who supplies Hong Kong’s best hotels with their raw material.
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Brightly painted colonial buildings and slightly psychedelic paving makes this square in the heart of Macau a favourite with photographers. At one end sits the Leal Senado, or Loyal Senate, now the seat of the municipal government but once the Portuguese headquarters. It was thus named because Macau refused to recognise the 17th-century Spanish occupation of Portugal.
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Terrific classic Cantonese restaurant that is packed all day but worth a wait.
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Prada, Paul Smith, Versace, Christian Dior and Cartier for the well-heeled.
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The elegant Neo-Classical Legislative building, completed in 1911, originally served as Hong Kong’s Supreme Court and now functions as Hong Kong’s would-be parliament.
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The Han burial tomb (AD 24– 220) can barely be seen through a scratched sheet of perspex. Still, it’s one of Hong Kong’s earliest surviving historical monuments, so act impressed.
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Once a fishing village, Lei Yue Mun translates as “carp gate”, although the only fish you’re likely to see now are in the excellent seafood restaurants lining the waterfront. This is the closest point between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon but don’t be tempted to swim across – if the pollution doesn’t kill you, you’ll be whisked away by the strong currents.
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Familiar mock-meat dishes on the àla carte menu, but the real steal is the ample lunchtime buffet, which includes desserts and a pot of tea.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges.
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