“A dream of Manhattan, arising from the South China Sea.” For succinctness, modern travel writer Pico Iyer’s description of Hong Kong has yet to be bettered. From opium port to Cold War enclave to frenetic financial capital, Hong Kong has never been boring. This is the hedonistic engine room of cultural fusion: East meets West in high style, and the results astonish and delight. Prepare to experience one of the most dramatic urban environments ever conceived.
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This place wears its ethical, veggy heart on its sleeve, with its twee slogans to peace, love and tofu on its walls. Don’t be put off. Service is friendly; the fresh food and juices exceptional.
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Air-conditioned rooms with shower, fridge, phone, bath and TV are merely adequate but the location and prices are great at this Salvation Army-run hotel.
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Big branch of the cut-price chain store. Stock up on comfy cotton T-shirts, socks and khakis.
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Fulfill your sad James Bond fantasies in the padded, crepuscular interior of this 1970s topless bar, which was used as a location inThe Man with the Golden Gun . It had more character under its legendary original owner and ex-Windmill Girl, Pat Sephton. Don’t despair: for kitsch factor alone, Bottoms Up will always be a worthy pit stop (see Bottom’s Up).
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Horribly, horribly sad and tacky – it featured in James Bond’sThe Man With the Golden Gun . Worth a look, just for historical purposes, of course.
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History is visible in the ruler-straight line of Boundary Street, which marked the border between British Hong Kong and China between 1860 and 1898. The lower part of the Kowloon Peninsula was ceded (supposedly in perpetuity) by China to the British, who wanted extra land for army training and commerce. The British then became worried over water shortages and wanted yet more land to protect Hong Kong Island from the threat of bombardment from newly invented long-range artillery. In 1898 the border was moved again to include the entire New Territories, this time on a 99-year lease (see 1898: The 99-Year Lease).
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The boxy rooms with ugly 80s wallpaper have smallish beds, but the place is clean, efficient and can be cheap, and has lovely views over Kowloon Park.
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As you might expect from such a remote hostel, basic, barrack-like dorms are the order of the day. Those with tents may want to walk on and pitch camp at Tai Long Wan’s lovely beaches nearby.
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This very pleasant hostel by the reservoir makes for a good base or stop-off for walkers wanting to explore the beautiful country around Plover Cove. Air-conditioned singles, doubles or dorms are available.
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Beat the pollution and enjoy the buzz at Oxyvital’s Central “oxygen bar”.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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