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An odd tower of rocks near Lion Rock Tunnel that when viewed from a certain angle, looks eerily like a woman with a baby on her back, hence the name. Legend holds that theamah’s husband sailed overseas to find work, while she waited patiently for his return. When a storm sunk his boat, she was so grief-stricken she turned to stone. An alternative interpretation is that the rock was created as an ancient phallic symbol. Take your pick.
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The graceful boughs of banyan trees stretch over this elegant avenue, shading the candy-coloured pageant of colonial-era architecture. Unlike in Hong Kong, many of Macau’s historic piles survive in excellent condition. At the gorgeous fort-turned-hotel at Macau’s tip, the Pousada de São Tiago, the road becomes Avenida de Republica. Follow it around the point, where it turns into Rue da Barra and ends in the Porto Interior (Inner Harbour).
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When you reach breaking point with all the shopping malls and theme parks, rest and refresh yourself with an exceptionally cheap foot or back massage, or perhaps some nail painting. A vast range of treatments are available at Lo Wu (see Lo Wu Commercial City). Hotel health centres offer the assurance of professional reflexology and traditional massage. Submitting to several treatments at the same time is the last word in pampering.
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The author of the 16th-century Portuguese epicThe Lusiads may never actually have visited Macau, but don’t try telling the local Portuguese. Luis Vaz de Camões specialized in overblown, patriotic verse – a bust of him peers through the grotto’s gloom. The adjoining gardens are popular with old men and their caged birds first thing in the morning.
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Go the dishlickers! This is the only greyhound racing club in Asia.
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The 1-mile (1.5-km) walk from the nearby light railway station is hard, but this is a nice little outing to relieve stress if the bustle of Hong Kong is getting to you. Suck in some (relatively) fresh sea air and let the chanting of the monks soothe your soul.
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With Chen being the most common family name in the area, it’s no surprise that the many groupings of local Chens constructed a suitably vast temple complex in the 1890s. It’s particularly worth a look if you haven’t visited any of the ancestral halls in the New Territories of Hong Kong. The most impressive feature is the ornate ceramic friezes adorning the roof, which depict legendary beasts. There are also displays (some of admittedly patchy quality) of jade, bone and other local crafts, some for sale. Head to the leafy courtyards for peace and shade.
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This former pirate haven retains much of its traditional character, from the small-scale shipyards at the harbour’s edge to the old temples and shrines that dot its narrow alleys. With many of its inhabitants still being fishermen, it’s a good destination for cheap seafood. There are also a couple of excellent beaches (see Cheung Chau Island).
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Full-size recreations of traditional villages are peopled by well groomed, eternally happy folk representing different ethnic Chinese groups. An anthropologist’s nightmare perhaps, but it will give you some idea of China’s diverse cultural and ethnic melting pot.
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The temple’s name means “evergreen pine tree”, a symbol of longevity and perseverance. The Koon, a Taoist sect, built the first structure, the Palace of Pure Brightness, in 1961 and has since added myriad pagodas, pavilions and peaceful Chinese gardens guaranteed to lower the blood pressure of even the most stress-soaked individual. There’s also vegetarian food and a bonsai collection.
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