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This stronghold of the Tsang clan dates back to 1848 and is built in typical Hakka style, with thick walls and a defensive tower in each corner. Dozens of families still live here.

This is the terminus of the MTR line and a perfect example of new town overcrowding. Worth a look just to glimpse Hong Kong life at its bleakest.

Less grim version of Tsuen Wan, with a massive shopping centre. Home to Hong Kong’s second racetrack.

Fanling’s Tang Chung Ling ancestral hall belongs to the foremost clan in the New Territories. The Lung Yeuk Tau heritage trail is nearby.

Warrior image, Fanling

Home to another of the main local clans, the Lius. From here, it’s a quick cab ride to Lok Ma Chau, one of the border crossings, where the architects-on-acid skyline of Shenzhen looms through the pall. Another ancestral hall.

Quaint fishing village turned expatriate haunt. Pubs with names like Steamers and the Duke of York, offset by old Chinese men click-clacking mahjong tiles in tiny cafés.

The name means “brocade field”, although these days any crops are more likely to be decorated with rusty cars. Traditional walled villages at Kat Hing Wai and Shui Tau.

Off the beaten track, and therefore its walled village is less busy than others.

One of the New Territories’ best-kept secrets. Picturesque little island where villagers watch the world go by from quaint homes.

Its market and Railway Museum are worth a quick look, before making your way to scenic Plover Cove.