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In the Pearl River Delta since the arrival of traders in the 16th century, the Portuguese have inter-married extensively with the Cantonese. Aside from a clutch of surnames (da Silva, Sequeira, Remedios), a lasting influence has been the fostering of an addiction to egg tarts and pastries.
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Many borrowings, includingpraya (waterfront road),joss (a corruption of deus, or god) andamah (maid).
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In 1941 the military commander begins his barbaric reign as Japan’s wartime governor of Hong Kong.
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A few now elderly descendants are all that is left of the former émigré community. Hong Kong’s White Russians were once numerous, and you still find borsch on the menu of every takeaway and coffee shop.
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Quaint fishing village turned expatriate haunt. Pubs with names like Steamers and the Duke of York, offset by old Chinese men click-clacking mahjong tiles in tiny cafés.
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Less grim version of Tsuen Wan, with a massive shopping centre. Home to Hong Kong’s second racetrack.
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Home to another of the main local clans, the Lius. From here, it’s a quick cab ride to Lok Ma Chau, one of the border crossings, where the architects-on-acid skyline of Shenzhen looms through the pall. Another ancestral hall.
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Pottinger becomes Hong Kong’s first governor. He turns a blind eye to illicit shipments of opium.
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It may resemble a parish church more than a cathedral but St John’s, completed in 1850, is the oldest Anglican church in east Asia.
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Its market and Railway Museum are worth a quick look, before making your way to scenic Plover Cove.
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