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This recently renovated temple is dedicated to Pak Tai, Cheung Chau’s patron deity who is credited with saving islanders from plague. The temple is the centre for the annual bun festival celebrations (see Cheung Chau Bun Festival), when mounds of buns are piled up to be offered to resident ghosts. The festival dates from the time of plagues in the 19th century, which were considered to be the vengeance of those killed by local pirates.

Although Hong Kong’s fishing industry has dwindled from its heyday, plenty of commercial fishing boats still operate from Cheung Chau’s typhoon shelter. Cheap cycle hire is available along the waterfront.

On Tung Wan Road is a tree that is thought to be the source of Cheung Chau’s good fortune. It is so revered by islanders that in recent years a restaurant opposite was knocked down instead of the tree to make way for a road extension.

The island’s finest beach is on the east coast, 150 m (500 ft) from the west coast’s ferry pier . It is tended by lifeguards and has a shark net.

A walk up the hill along Don Bosco and Peak roads will take you past some lovely old colonial houses and beautiful sea views. The cemetery on Peak Road has especially fine vistas.

The place where a 19th-century buccaneer Cheung Po-Tsai supposedly stashed his booty, this “cave” is more of a hole or crevice. Take a torch to explore. The sea views nearby are lovely.

The family of Olympic gold-medalist Lee Lai-Shan operates the windsurfing centre and café near Tung Wan.

At the harbour’s northern end is a busy yard where junks are built and nets mended. Look out for the slabs of ice sliding along the overhead chute, down a mini-helter-skelter and onto the boats.

If you want to dine on fish or shellfish, there’s plenty of choice along the seafront on She Praya Road north and south of the ferry pier. The restaurants are cheaper than other seafood centres such as Lamma. Choose from the live tanks .

In the Hong Kong region are several rock carvings in close proximity to the sea. Cheung Chau has one facing the sea just below the Warwick Hotel. Nothing is known of the people who carved these shapes about 3,000 years ago.