O’ahu is the most populous of the Hawaiian islands, and its conjoined hubs are the city of Honolulu and the world-famous Waikīkī Beach. The vast majority of visitors make Waikīkī their base, venturing out on day trips to take in Honolulu’s many cultural attractions, Pearl Harbor, and other parts of the island. The family-friendly beaches and parks of the South hore and Kāne’ohe District are in striking distance of Honolulu, while diehard surfers head for the North Coast. The Polynesian Cultural Center is also an easy day trip from the city.
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Locals favor kayaking along the Windward Coast, where small islets offer interesting scenery, and there’s a popular sandbar in Kāne’ohe Bay. But many of the islets are bird sanctuaries where landing is prohibited.
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Reached from a public right of way at the end of Kulamanu Place off Kāhala Avenue and Diamond Head Road, this narrow, white sand beach is protected by a reef and is safe for swimming and snorkeling. It’s also used for diving, pole fishing and throw-netting, while surfers make spectacular use of breaks in the reef.
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This sprawling state park begins at the abrupt and muddy end of Farrington Highway and takes you along a wild, boulder-strewn shoreline to the dunes at O’ahu’s westernmost tip. This is said to be where the souls of the dead leapt into the afterlife. It’s a broiling hot 2.5-hour hike (Ka’ena means “the heat”), but worth it for the beauty of the landscape and the whales you can spot in season. Take sunscreen, water, hat, and sturdy walking shoes.
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Largely unimproved and subject to the pressures of multiple uses such as off-road vehicles, fishermen, hikers, shell-collectors, and traditional Hawaiian practitioners, Ka’ena Point park is a narrow strip of land that connects the two ends of Farrington Highway (at Mokule’ia and Yokohama Bay). Hike a muddy, rutted road, catching sight of small bays and beaches until you reach O’ahu’s end, a tumbled landscape of sand dunes, rocks, and waves.
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Until the introduction of tow-in surfing, the mammoth waves of Ka’ena Point remained tantalizingly off limits to surfers because of the impossibility of paddling out from the rock-fringed, current-tossed shore. A north swell at Lae o Ka’ena results in 30–40-ft waves and brings out the most daring sorts.
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This five-mile, two-hour trek along the muddy remains of the shore highway offers pole-fishing sites, shelling in small inlets during low tide, and glimpses of birds, dolphins, and whales.
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These modest yet clean, comfortable beach cottages occupy their own stretch of beach between the surfing beaches of Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline. Run by a local resident, they offer serene, family-style Hawai’i.
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Operated by a Bible-thumping power-lifter, this is part fast food joint (great shave ice and unusual plate lunches) and part youth center, where the graffiti is scripture.
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Brought by Hawai’i’s Korean immigrants, kim chee is simply pickled cabbage, but for those who love hot – that is, VERY HOT – flavors, it is a “must try.” Traditionally, the cabbage is stored in tightly sealed jars and buried in the ground, then dug up as and when needed.
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Reece’s photographs portray alluring hula dancers in traditional dress. Hand-printed sepia originals, posters, and Reece’s books are all available.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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