From Kailua to Kahuku is a journey from town to country, suburb to rural O’ahu. Kailua, a bedroom community of Honolulu, is an upscale neighborhood of beach and lake homes, while Kāne’ohe accommodates a Marine base and Hawaiian homestead lands. North from Kāne’ohe, the route along Kamehameha Highway passes a string of sandy beaches and brooding valleys, watched over by the sharp-etched Ko’olau Mountain Range.
More on the beautiful Kāne’ohe District and the Polynesian Cultural Center-
Without question, the best evening dining on this side of the island. The East-West food is genuinely innovative and focuses on seasonality and the freshness of ingredients.
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Morning
Begin your itinerary by heading straight for Kailua, where you can stop off at Agnes Bakery for coffee and malassadas (Portuguese hole-less doughnuts fried up fresh and eaten hot).
Poke around the trio of antique shops clustered at Kailua Road and Hamakua Drive. If you’re feeling peckish, pick up a sandwich at Brent’s Deli (629A Kaha St), the only place resembling a true Jewish-style deli on the island.
Then it’s time to head for Kailua Beach or Lanikai for a beach afternoon.
Afternoon
You could opt for a lazy, sun-soaked afternoon. But if you fancy a little more activity, rent some form of watercraft from Bob Twogood Kayaks (262 5656) or Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (262 2555). Then, either paddle out to the Nā Mokulua (“the mokes”) off Kailua Beach or drive over to He’eia Kai Boat Harbor to check out the Ahu O Laka sandbar.
If you do plan to spend more time on the coast, consider reserving one of the luxurious rooms at the Turtle Bay Resort (57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku, 293 8811). You can putter your way from Kailua to Kahuku, leaving mid-afternoon and making one or two stops, and still arrive by check-in time. You won’t have to face the long drive back across the island, and you can dine in the extraordinary 21 Degrees North .
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At low tide on a weekend, drive slowly on Kamehameha Highway just past He’eia Kea Boat Harbor. A little way offshore, you’ll see watercraft of every description clustered around seemingly nothing at all. In fact, just above sea level is a sandbar, and locals like to fetch up here, light the hibachi and hang out. Rent a canoe or kayak and join them.
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Straightforward Italian food of the marinara-with-everything school, prompt service, and a family-friendly atmosphere are the hallmarks of Assagio.
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Italian-Thai cuisine, but not as a fusion. The restaurant serves both simply because its owners know both – and it’s a yummy combo.
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This stacked-high bookshop is a rare find in Hawai’i: a place run by readers for readers, with comfy chairs and a mix of used books and new titles. A great supply of locally published works, too.
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This venerable spot – a warren of dim rooms scented with the delicious aroma of grilling meat – turns out surf and turf for everyone from Lanikai millionaires to sandy surfers.
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Named after a nearby lion-like rock formation, this old-fashioned restaurant ladles out soups, salads, and its specialties: Slavonic Steak and Mile High Pie.
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Call to Joe’s isn’t reserved for a wedding – neighboring Ha’ikū Gardens does a booming bride-and-groom business. If open, expect steaks, seafood, and sandwiches.
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Hau’ula (“red hau tree”) is the starting point for three easy to moderate rambles. (A fourth hike, Sacred Falls is closed indefinitely due to landslide danger.) The two most worthwhile treks are Maka’aua Loop and Maka’aua Ridge Loop (aka Papali Trail); both offer good views, interesting plants, and guavas in their late summer and fall season.
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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