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Some still arrange leaf-wrapped gift bundles on the massive rock platform, once a site of prayer, sacrifice, ceremony, and divination. Likely built during the time of Kamehameha I, the heiau continued in use until the ancient religion was officially abandoned. If Kailua-bound on Highway 61, turn left into Ulu’oa Street at the Windward YMCA, park in the Y lot or along the street and follow the signs.

This country-chic town consists of a few blocks of shops and restaurants, peaceful ’60s-era neighborhoods, and a string of popular beaches. Park along Kailua Road and explore on foot to find interesting gift and clothing shops, and the “antiques corner” at Kailua Road and Hamakua Drive.

The beach at Kailua

Developed as a beach retreat in the 1920s, Lanikai (reached by a beach road south of Kailua) is one of the most sought-after addresses on O’ahu. The neighborhood remains tight-knit, hosting community plays and an exceptional pre-Christmas craft fair.

North on Kamehameha Highway from Kāne’ohe, surrounded by mangrove swamp, this grassy, well-maintained state park offers a view of the 80-acre He’eia fishpond, the largest intact aqua-culture zone in the islands. When in use, fingerlings of the prized ’ama’ama (mullet) and ’ahole (Hawaiian flagtail) would swim into the rock-walled ponds through vertical gates called kahala , but would be unable to swim out. In this way, the fish were successfully farmed.

At low tide on a weekend, drive slowly on Kamehameha Highway just past He’eia Kea Boat Harbor. A little way offshore, you’ll see watercraft of every description clustered around seemingly nothing at all. In fact, just above sea level is a sandbar, and locals like to fetch up here, light the hibachi and hang out. Rent a canoe or kayak and join them.

This flat, windy park, with its narrow sandy beach and shallow inshore ponds, is fantastic for kite-flying, snorkeling, launching watercraft, picnicking, and camping (by permit). The clearly visible peak sitting on the ocean (sometimes known as the China-man’s Hat) is the island of Mokoli’i (see Mokoli’i (Chinaman’s Hat)).

Kualoa Regional Park

The beach at Kualoa Regional Park

The valley and rolling hillsides of Kualoa were once a sacred place of refuge, then passed to missionary descendants from royal hands. Today, it is a working cattle ranch, as well as a park where visitors can enjoy equestrian experiences (see Kualoa Ranch Horse Trails). The ranch has also been hired as a movie set, appearing in films such as Jurassic Park and Windtalkers .

Kualoa Ranch

This deep, green valley is state-owned watershed land, fronted by an eight-acre city and county park. The park has a sandy beach, bathrooms, picnic tables, lots of chickens (escaped fowl are ubiquitous all along this coast) and the remnants of two fishponds. Watch for fishermen wading out to catch akule (big-eyed scad).

Hau’ula (“red hau tree”) is the starting point for three easy to moderate rambles. (A fourth hike, Sacred Falls is closed indefinitely due to landslide danger.) The two most worthwhile treks are Maka’aua Loop and Maka’aua Ridge Loop (aka Papali Trail); both offer good views, interesting plants, and guavas in their late summer and fall season.

This mile-and-a-bit of curving sandy beach is distinguished by bare-bones beach homes available for rent, a reef that keeps the inshore waters calm, and Goat Island, a wild and beautiful place that can be reached on foot at low tide; be sure to wear beach shoes.