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At the ticket office, you are given a pestemal (a sarong-like garment, for modesty), a kese (a coarse mitt for scrubbing the body down) and tokens to give to the attendants. Men and women are then sent off to separate sections.

Originally the hamam consisted of two identical suites of rooms, each with a separate entrance. The men’s section of the baths is still exactly as envisaged by its creator, Sinan.

The women’s changing area was lost in 1868, when Divanyolu Caddesi was widened, so women now change in a corridor; but their hot room is unaltered.

Here, an attendant will assign you a locker and give you a pair of slippers. Most people go nude under the pestemal, but wear a swimsuit if you wish to.

The hot room has a domed ceiling supported by 12 arches that rise from marble columns. The dome is pitted with glass “elephants’ eyes”, which channel the light through the steam to polka-dot the floor.

Around the walls are a number of private cubicles with taps running cold, warm and hot water, which you can use to wash or cool down if the heat gets too much for you.

In the centre of the hot room is a large slab of marble. Lie down and wait for the attendant. You will be covered in soap suds, and scrubbed all over with the kese. Then you will be lathered again, washed with a cloth, and soap-massaged. Finally, your hair will be washed, and you will be vigorously rinsed with buckets of water.

The cool room is the place to sit and chat. The men’s is as elegant as it was in Sinan’s day; the women’s a little less welcoming. Afterwards, head back to change, or go for your oil massage.

You will be one of several people being massaged on a row of beds under bright lights. It’s worth any discomfort you may experience – you’ll feel great after.

Take as much time as you like to return to the steam room or sit in the cool room. If you want the full works, the attendants will be happy to give you a manicure, pedicure or facial.