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Church of St Saviour in Chora

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The Church of St Saviour in Chora is home to one of the world’s finest collections of Byzantine art: more than 100 magnificent mosaics and frescoes depicting biblical images. They were commissioned in 1315–21 by Byzantine statesman Theodore Metochites, who also restored the 11th-century church on the site. The church was converted into a mosque in 1511 and is known by locals as Kariye Mosque (Kariye Camii). Its works of art slipped into obscurity until they were rediscovered in 1860. Restoration began in 1948.
Photography is permitted, but flash is forbidden. Note that it is practically impossible to focus unless you use a tripod. The Asitane Restaurant next door is a pleasant garden café, and one of the best places in Istanbul to eat traditional Ottoman cuisine. There was an earlier (6th-century) church on this site, but nothing remains of it. Like many other former places of worship in Istanbul, the Church of St Saviour in Chora is now a museum.

Top 10 Features

1. Exterior

1. Exterior

Walk round the back of the church to experience the full impact of its architecture – with masonry of striped marble, six domes, layers of arches, undulating rooflines and, to one side, a minaret.
2. Genealogy of Christ

2. Genealogy of Christ

The two domes of the inner narthex (western entrance) portray 66 of Christ’s forebears. In one dome, Christ is surrounded by ancestors including Adam, Abraham, Jacob and Jacob's 12 sons. In the other, the Virgin and Child survey the kings of the House of David.
3. Anastasis Fresco

3. Anastasis Fresco

This resurrection fresco depicts Christ pulling Adam and Eve from their graves, while the gates of hell are broken and Satan lies bound at Christ's feet.
4. Parecclesion

4. Parecclesion

A funerary chapel south of the main church, this is a glory of frescoes depicting judgment and resurrection. The unmarked tomb in the north wall may be that of Theodore Metochites.
5. Ministry of Christ

5. Ministry of Christ

The vaults of seven bays in the outer narthex and the south bay of the inner narthex detail the ministry of Christ, including his temptation and miracles such as the wedding at Cana and the healing of the sick.
6. Mosaic of Theodore Metochites

6. Mosaic of Theodore Metochites

Over the door leading from the inner narthex to the nave is a superb mosaic depicting Theodore Metochites in a large turban presenting his church to Christ, who raises a hand in blessing.
7. The Last Judgment

In the main dome of the Paracclesion is a vision of the Last Judgment, with Christ in Majesty flanked by the Virgin Mary, John the Baptist and the Apostles. Adam and Eve kneel at Christ’s feet.
8. Life of the Virgin

Twenty mosaics in the inner narthex depict the life of the Virgin Mary, based on the apocryphal 2nd-century Gospel of St James. They include images of Mary’s first steps (at six months old), her time as a temple attendant (aged 3–13), and Joseph arriving home to find her pregnant.
9. Infancy of Christ

Scenes from Christ's infancy are depicted in the semicircular panels of the outer narthex. Based on New Testament accounts, they include the Journey to Bethlehem, Mary and Joseph enrolling for taxation, the Nativity, and the terrible Massacre of the Innocents.
10. Dormition of the Virgin

10. Dormition of the Virgin

This beautiful mosaic in the nave shows Christ sitting beside his mother’s coffin, cradling a baby that represents her soul. Above is Ashrael, the Angel of Death.

Practical Information

Photography is permitted, but flash is forbidden. Note that it is practically impossible to focus unless you use a tripod. The Asitane Restaurant next door is a pleasant garden café, and one of the best places in Istanbul to eat traditional Ottoman cuisine. Kariye Camii Sok, Kariye Meydanı, Edirnekapı (0212) 631 92 41 Open 9am–6:30pm Thu–Tue Adm $7