Haghia Sophia
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Haghia Sophia, the Church of Holy Wisdom (Aya Sofya in Turkish), is an awe-inspiring expression of religious faith and one of the world’s foremost architectural wonders. The first church on the site burned down in 404, the second was destroyed during the Nika Riots of 532, but the third – inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537 – stands firm today, despite countless wars and earthquakes, a blazing beacon to the faith of its creators. The church was converted into a mosque in the 15th century. Since 1934 it has been a museum.
After your visit, it’s well worth coming back at night to see both Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque floodlit. No refreshments are provided within the complex, but there are many options in Sultanahmet Square and Divanyolu Caddesi, a couple of minutes’ walk away. The architects who created Haghia Sophia were two Greek mathematicians, Isidorus of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles. You are unlikely ever to see the whole church without scaffolding; the current round of restoration has been ongoing for decades.
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1. Exterior
Its deep red walls piled high with semidomes soaring up towards the vast central dome, the main building is much as it was in the 6th century – except for the buttresses added to secure the structure, which, unfortunately, partly obscure the original shape.
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2. Galleries
2. GalleriesWomen used the galleries for prayer. There are splendid mosaics in the south gallery: look out for Christ Pantocrator (Almighty) with John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary; and Mary holding the Infant Christ, flanked by Emperor John II Comnenus and Empress Irene.
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3. Weeping Pillar
3. Weeping PillarEmperor Justinian rested his aching head against the damp stone of this pillar and was instantly cured. Ever since, visitors have queued to touch the miraculous spot.
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4. Columns
The Byzantines were great scavengers, and most of the columns in the Haghia Sophia were salvaged from pagan temples.
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5. Narthex
5. NarthexThere are doors leading into the nave from each bay of the narthex; the large central one, the Imperial Gate, was once reserved for the Emperor and the Patriarch. At the south end of the narthex, look back above the door as you exit into the Vestibule of the Warriors to see the wonderful 6th-century mosaic of Constantine and Justinian offering their city and church to the infant Christ.
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6. Coronation Square
Set into the floor near the minbar, the site of the emperor’s throne is marked in a square of patterned marble. In Byzantine times, this was considered to be the centre of the world (omphalion).
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7. Islamic Elements
7. Islamic ElementsThe conversion of the church into a mosque began in 1453. The mosaics were plastered over (and discovered only in the 1930s). The mihrab and minbar (see Minbar and Mihrab ) were added by Sultan Murat III in the 16th century. Look up to see the calligraphic roundels at the base of the dome.
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8. Nave
8. NaveOn entering the nave the overwhelming impression is of the vast space enclosed by the dome. This sits on four arches rising out of four enormous marble piers, which frame double colonnades at either end.
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9. Dome
The soaring dome, 32 m (101 ft) in diameter, rises 56 m (183 ft) above the ground. Supported by 40 ribs made from special lightweight hollow bricks, it was and remains a miracle of engineering. The original design was even more ambitious – it survived for 21 years before being destroyed by an earthquake in 559.
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10. Windows
Banks of windows in the tympanum walls beneath the dome, as well as a circle of windows between the ribs of the dome, flood the church with light.
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