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Turkey has tourist offices in many cities around the globe, including London, Paris, Rome, Madrid, Los Angeles, Washington and New York.

Several countries have Turkish embassies and consulates. The embassy staff will direct you to the consulate if it isn’t in the same building.

To enter Turkey you need a full passport valid for at least six months. Citizens of the following countries require visas, paid for in hard currency at the point of entry into Turkey: UK (£10), Canada (US$60), Australia (US$20), USA (US$20) and Ireland (€10). Photos are not required. You receive a multiple-entry tourist visa valid for three months. South Africans or people with British National Overseas passports must apply for a visa at a con-sulate before travelling. New Zealand nationals receive a free tourist visa on arrival, valid for up to three months.

Visitors may bring 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 200 g pipe tobacco, 5 litres wine or spirits, 5 x 100 ml bottles of perfume, 1 kg sweets and 1 kg chocolate, 500 g tea, 1.5 kg coffee and 1.5 kg instant coffee into Turkey. You may also buy 400 cigarettes, 100 cigars and 500 g pipe tobacco from the Turkish duty-free shops on arrival. Penalties for possessing narcotics are very harsh.

You are strongly advised to take out travel insurance with full medical cover, including repatriation by air. If buying a Europe-only policy, check that it will also cover you on the Asian side of Istanbul.

You do not need inoculations for Istanbul.

Summers are long, sunny and dry, with the odd thunderstorm. It can reach 40º C (104º F), but 31–3º C (88–91º F) is normal at midday in August, dropping to around 23º C (74º F) at night. Winter can be cool and damp, with a little snow and likely January temperatures of around 8º C (46º F) at midday and 2º C (36º F) overnight.

In May, June and September the sun is out, the temperature is pleasant and there are fewer tourists than usual. In November or February, prices are slashed.

In summer, pack light clothes for the midday heat with a jacket for the evenings, plus a hat and sunblock. In winter, take a coat and umbrella. To visit mosques, wear long trousers or a skirt that covers the knees, and a shirt that covers the shoulders. Women should also bring a scarf with which to cover the head. Don’t forget to bring mosquito repellent and an adaptor plug.

The national carrier, Turkish Airlines, flies to and from more than 100 airports worldwide. Other major airlines and low-cost carriers also fly to Istanbul. Flights are 3.5 hours from London and 9 hours from New York.

Turkish Airlines competes with domestic operators including Onur Air, Atlas Jet and Fly Air.

Istanbul has two main airports, Atatürk International and Sabiha Gökçen. Most major airlines fly into Atatürk International, 24 km (15 miles) west of the city centre, on the European shore. Sabiha Gökçen, on the Asian side, is 50 km (30 miles) from Taksim. A few larger carriers such as Japan Air Lines (JAL) and Air France fly here, as does the UK budget airline EasyJet.

Atatürk International has good transport links. Taxis and hotel buses are fixed-price (taxis around US$15–20). Havaş buses run at 30-minute intervals to Akmerkez (Etiler, 45 minutes) and Taksim (about 40 minutes). An airport bus also meets the boat at Bakırköy and the metro connects the airport with Sultanahmet and (via the funicular) with Taksim. From Sabiha Gökçen buses link with ferries to/from Bostancı, 14 km (9 miles) from the airport. A costly taxi ride is the only other option, which could wipe out the benefit of a budget flight.

You can travel to Istanbul by train – from Western Europe or from Moscow – but it is a two- or three-day trip. Inter-rail, Eurodomino and Balkan Flexipass tickets are valid in Turkey, but Eurail passes are not.

International trains and those from European Turkey use Sirkeci Station, Eminönü; trains from Anatolia come into Haydarpaşa Station on the Asian shore.

Coaches travel to Istanbul from all over Europe. In the UK, contact Eurolines. Coaches within Turkey are comfortable and popular but ticket prices are complicated.

Istanbul’s main coach station is at Esenler, about 10 km (6 miles) northwest of the city centre. There is a second station at Harem, just behind Haydarpaşa Station on the Asian shore.

Ferries run to Turkey from Italy, Greece and Northern Cyprus. The UKR Ferry Shipping Company runs a regular ferry across the Black Sea from Odessa.

A licensed taxi (taksi) is yellow and shows a light on top when available for hire. In touristy areas such as the Grand Bazaar, check that the meter is switched on – and on the correct rate (one red light on the meter for day rate or two for evening). Better still, fix the fare before you get in. Ask a local what the fare should be and haggle hard (see Unscrupulous Cab Drivers ). If you cross the Bosphorus, the bridge toll will be added to your fare.

These cheap, shared minibus taxis run along set routes, and will only depart when they are full (really full – dolmuş means “stuffed”) but will pick up or set down where you want along the route. Ranks have a blue sign with a black D on a white background. They don’t operate in the city centre.

There are two metro sections: one runs from Levent to Taksim, the other from Aksaray via Kocatepe to the airport. A new section is due to connect Taksim with Aksaray by late 2007.

The tram is a small but splendid affair that runs from the airport through the old city, across the Galata Bridge and along the Bosphorus to Dolmabahçe Palace, linking to Taksim via the funicular. It is cheap, frequent, air-conditioned and it beats the traffic. It operates 6am–midnight daily. The Antique Tram runs along İstiklal Caddesi between Taksim and Tünel.

The Tünel, connecting Galata to Beyoğlu, is one of the world’s oldest undergrounds. A second funicular runs from the Bosphorus shore to Taksim.

Buy tokens from kiosks near stations and stops. If you are around for more than a couple of days, get an Akbil ticket – a token that can be used on all buses (except double-deckers), trams, the metro and ferries. Press it into the orange machine as you enter whichever form of public transport you are taking, and recharge it when necessary at stations and kiosks displaying the Akbil sign. A blue (mavi) token operates as a 1-day, 1-week, 15-day or 31-day travel card.

The main ferry docks are at Eminönü. There are others at Karaköy and Kabataş. A useful route runs along the Marmara coast to Bakırköy, from where there is a shuttle bus to the airport (see Ferries ). There are regular sailings from Eminönü to Kadıköy and Üsküdar on the Asian side, but the most scenic way to cross is on the Bosphorus ferry (see Bosphorus Cruise ). Most lines are run by Turkish Maritime Lines and Istanbul Fast Ferry (see Ferries ).

Driving in the city centre is a nightmare. If you have come to Istanbul by car, use the ring roads that skirt the city centre and park as soon as possible. The larger business hotels have parking, but those in the old city do not. To take in sights spread out around the city walls, Golden Horn or along the Bosphorus, hire a car and driver – most hotels can arrange this for you.

You will miss many of the best aspects of the city, such as the small alleys and markets, if you don’t walk. Wear shoes that you can slip on and off easily for mosques. Traffic will only stop at light-controlled crossings.

There are several official tourist offices and kiosks around the city. Most staff speak English.

For travel advice, visit www.mfa.gov.tr (Turkish Foreign Ministry); for the latest travel health advice, go to www.mdtravel health.com. For tourist information, see www.tourismturkey.org (the Ministry of Tourism), www.gototurkey.co.uk (the Turkish Tourist Office in London), www.istanbul.com (the official Istanbul Tourist Office), www.kultur.gov.tr (the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism) and www.nisanyan.net (a listing of small hotels). The definitive US-run Turkey tour site is www.turkeytravelplanner.com.

The Guide (bi-monthly) and Time Out (monthly) have entertainment and dining listings. Istanbul Forever is a bi-monthly magazine available free in hotels. Cornucopia covers the arts, history and general culture of Turkey.

The bestsellers are Sabah and Hürriyet. The English-language paper, Turkish Daily News, prints entertainment listings. You can get day-old international papers at major hotels and kiosks in tourist areas.

There are several shops offering books in English and other languages, but centrally located Galeri Kayseri is the main English-language retailer. For second-hand books, look in the Book Bazaar in Beyazıt.

The free city map available from tourist offices and most hotels is all that most people need. For more detail, look for the Freytag & Berndt Istanbul City Map (scale 1:10,000).

Most travel agents and tour operators in Turkey will be happy to provide a private guide in one of half a dozen major languages. The guide should be accredited by the Ministry of Tourism.

There are tours by bus, boat, on foot or a mix of them, with full- and half-day options. Plan Tours do an open-topped double-decker bus tour of the city that can be a good way to get your bearings. There are also tours by night and trips to cultural evenings – including belly dancing.

The UK Foreign Office and US State Department websites give detailed, up-to-date advice on the risks of travel.

Turkey is 3 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time in summer (March–October) and 2 hours ahead for the rest of the year.

The current is 220V, and plugs have two round pins. You’ll need a transformer to use 110V appliances from the US.

Banks open 8:30am–noon and 1:30–5pm Monday to Friday; a few larger branches also open on Saturday mornings. All have 24-hour cash dispensers. Post offices open 9am–5pm Monday to Saturday. Shops are open 10am–6pm Monday to Saturday, with some local stores, malls and large shops open longer. Museums are usually open 9am–5pm (closed Monday or Tuesday).

In addition to the five state holidays, there are two principal religious festivals: Şeker Bayramı, which follows the holy month of Ramazan (Ramadan in other countries), and Kurban Bayramı (see Festivals and Events ). During Ramazan, no water or food is allowed to touch the lips during daylight hours. Nothing actually shuts down, but daily life is disrupted (although the parties at night can be spectacular). The dates of Ramazan, Şeker Bayramı and Kurban Bayramı move backwards by 11 days each year. Christmas Day is not a Muslim festival, but is still celebrated by a large number of Turks.

Post offices and boxes can be recognized by a yellow and blue PTT logo. Stamps can only be bought at post offices and PTT kiosks. The post can be slow, so if you want to send purchases home, use a courier firm for speed – all the main courier companies have offices in Istanbul.

Most tourist hotels, of any standard, have a computer with free Internet access in the lobby. Many also offer free Wi-Fi, as do some cafés.

Turkey’s mobile phone system is compatible with UK phones, but US cellphones may not work. To save on charges, buy a local pay-as-you-go SIM card or an international card such as sim4travel. Public phones accept credit cards or a phone card bought from a post office. Hotel phones are usually expensive.

The international dialling code for Turkey is 90. Istanbul has two area codes: 0212 for the European side, 0216 for the Asian side.

In tourist areas there will always be someone who speaks some English. Written Turkish uses the Western alphabet, but there are some differences in pronunciation. C is pronounced “j” as in “jam”; ç is “ch” as in “church”. S is as in snake; ş is “sh” as in “shut”. İ is used as in igloo; the dotless “i” (ı) is more like “uh”. The ğ is silent, but is used to draw out the preceding vowel. So Cağaloğlu is actually pronounced jar-low-loo.

The Yeni (New) Turkish Lira (YTL) comes in 1, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 YTL notes and 1 YTL coins. 1 YTL is split into 100 kuruş, which come in 1, 5, 10 and 20 kuruş coins. The lira was recently devalued by knocking off 6 noughts – people will sometimes, startlingly, still ask you for a couple of million (2 YTL) for a bottle of water. You are allowed to bring unlimited foreign currency and up to US$5,000-worth of YTL into Turkey, but you’ll probably get a better exchange rate if you wait until you are in Turkey to exchange your money.

Make sure that you have plenty of small-denomination notes and coins with you at all times, as few traders seem to have any and many will assume that you don’t actually want any change from a larger note. Cab drivers may compound this by sleight of hand (see Unscrupulous Cab Drivers ).

Most souvenir shops are happy to accept lira, US dollars, euros or pounds sterling. Your change will come in lira.

There are plenty of banks, but changing money can be slow. The many 24-hour cash dispensers (ATMs) accept all Maestro and Cirrus bank cards with a PIN number, and will also give a cash advance on credit cards. Most are programmed with several languages, but pay out only in Turkish lira.

If you have cash to exchange, the best place to go is an exchange office (döviz). These kiosks are found in all the main tourist areas. They are faster and usually offer a better rate of exchange than the banks. They rarely accept traveller’s cheques.

Most outlets dealing with tourists will accept major credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard. American Express cards are less popular because commission is higher. You may be asked to pay a premium to cover the cost of the commission.

You can cash traveller’s cheques at foreign exchange desks at banks and post offices and at American Express and Thomas Cook offices, but few outlets, including hotels, will accept them.

Turkey is extremely good value for visitors. The only exception is fuel, which is very expensive. However, haggling for a bargain is part of daily life, and in places like the Grand Bazaar and the old city it’s a necessity. Take your time, shop around and don’t feel pressurized. When you are ready, offer half the price and take it from there. Don’t be afraid to haggle for a fixed-price taxi ride, either, but don’t expect to bargain for goods in upmarket shops.

VAT (KDV in Turkish) is included in fixed-price goods. There are various rates, but the most common is 18 per cent. Prices may rise if you ask for a VAT invoice – a trader who writes an invoice will have to pay tax. To reclaim tax on departure, shop at places displaying a tax-free sign and get a Global Refund Cheque to reclaim the tax (in cash) at the airport. You may be asked to produce the goods, so keep them with you.

While Istanbul tap water is considered safe, it is advisable to drink bottled water. The standard of hygiene in most cafés and restaurants is good.

If you are vulnerable to stomach upsets, foods to avoid include salad, seafood from street stalls and unpackaged ice cream. If you do get a bug, don’t eat for 24 hours, then try 24 hours on black tea, water, yoghurt and dry bread. If you still feel ill, seek medical assistance.

A pharmacy (eczane) can treat minor ailments and many drugs are available over the counter, without prescription. In every district one pharmacist will be open around the clock for emergencies, with the rota (nöbetçi) posted in all pharmacists’ windows. All hotels will call a doctor for you. There are also good free public clinics (poliklinik) for minor problems.

Istanbul has public and private hospitals – the latter tend to offer a higher standard of medical care and cleanliness.

It is illegal to be out in public without photo ID. If all you have is your passport and you don’t wish to risk carrying it around, take a photocopy of the relevant page.

Istanbul has very low crime levels compared to most major cities. Take normal precautions. If you feel threatened, raise your voice and ask locals for help (see also Things to Avoid ).

Turkey has suffered bombing campaigns by PKK Kurdish nationalists and al-Qaeda. PKK bombs have targeted suburban districts and coastal resorts. Al-Qaeda bombs have been more central, hitting synagogues, the British Consulate and the HSBC bank in Istanbul.

Emergency service operators may not speak English. Ask a Turk to call for you or contact the Tourist Police.

The Turkish police are trying hard to improve their image and, as long as you don’t break the law, they will be polite and helpful. In tourist areas, report losses, theft or other problems at the Tourist Police office.

Children are welcome almost everywhere, but give very blond children a hat or they will attract uncomfortable levels of attention. Some large hotels arrange activities for children, and most will provide babysitting on request.

Be sure to pack plenty of supplies. You can get everything you need in Istanbul, from nappies to baby food, but it isn’t always easy to find them in tourist areas since supermarkets tend to be in the suburbs.

Some Turkish women wear strappy tops and short skirts, but a growing number are returning to wearing scarves. A few – often Arab tourists – wear full burkas. Western women are seen as free and easy – Turkish men will flirt and younger women will be hassled, but you can usually stop it with a polite but firm response. Wear clothes that cover the shoulders and knees, walk purpose-fully and avoid quiet streets at night if alone.

Homosexuality is not illegal in Turkey, but it is frowned upon by Islam. There is a thriving gay scene in Istanbul, but locals are not always far out of the closet and there is significant homophobia. Don’t be too demonstrative in public and be careful where you go on nights out; some local gay bars are decidedly seedy. But there are many safe venues in Beyoğlu and several useful websites including www.trgi.info.

On the whole, the city is difficult to navigate in a wheelchair. Older, historic buildings tend to be totally or partially inaccessible and many mosques refuse access to wheelchairs. But the biggest problem is Istanbul itself – with its seven, often steep, hills and cobbled roads and pavements. The Turkish Tourist Office in London publishes a helpful guide to facilities for disabled travellers.

You are guaranteed courteous service and assistance – Turkish people revere seniors. At monuments and museums, look out for over-65 discounts.

There are three hostels accredited by Hostelling International. You should get in free to museums and monuments with a FIYTO (Federation of International Youth Travel Organizations) card or a 50 per cent reduction with an ISIC (International Student Identity Card) – the latter will also give you intercity train discounts.

Ninety-nine per cent of Turks are Muslim, but the degree to which they practise their religion varies greatly. There are some fundamentalists, but the vast majority believe utterly in a secular state and are completely tolerant of other religions.

The Turks smoke a lot of pungent black Turkish tobacco. There are no-smoking areas in Turkey (including public offices, banks and shops, as well as public transport), and the ban is increasingly observed. Where it is not, there is no point in complaining. A very few international hotels offer non-smoking rooms.

Lokantas are day-to-day eateries. They range from self-service cafeterias to full-service brasserie-style places. Prices are affordable, but few serve alcohol. A cheap self-service café may also be known as a bufé. The restoran is upmarket; if the word balık is included, the place specializes in fish and seafood.

The kebapcı serves kebabs and lahmacun, a sort of thin pancake with a savoury topping; the dönerci, döner kebabs and other roast meat. The pideci is the Turkish equivalent of a pizzeria.

If you fancy a drink and live music with a meal, try a meyhane. If you want to chill out in a haze of smoke, head for a nargilecafé, where you’ll be plied with sweet tea while you suck on a hubble-bubble waterpipe. The simple çayhane(tea room) is generally a male preserve, where men, spend their time playing games of backgammon Cafés have a separate section for women and families (aile salonu) at the back, as do some restaurants. Local bars in central Istanbul are often rather grim. If you want to go for a drink, the best choice is a tourist hotel.

Few restaurants in Istanbul cater specifically to vegetarians, but while vegetarian (veciteryan) main courses are rare, staff are generally helpful and most places serve a selection of vegetable meze which can make a delicious main meal.

A muhallebici sells milk puddings; pastanes sell pastries, such as baklava, to take away.

In central Istanbul, many restaurants have menus in several languages, but off the beaten track ordering a meal is more difficult. Try the “show and point” method – the waiter brings in a tray of meze and you indicate the ones you want. For the main course, ask (by gesture) to go into the kitchen and inspect the pots.

On the whole, the standard of hotels is high. The government-run star system is based on facilities, not on a hotel’s atmosphere or efficiency – so don’t rely on stars alone. There are online booking services, many with discounts. The US site www.tripadvisor.com offers honest reviews by other travellers.

The dividing line between guesthouse, pension and small hotel is blurred in Turkey. There are family-run guesthouses but – with literally one or two exceptions owned and run by foreigners – there is no equivalent of the British bed & breakfast (B&B), or the French chambre d’hôte, where you lodge and dine with a local family. Self-catering apartments are only just starting to take off.

Istanbul stays open year round, but prices drop dramatically out of season (Nov–Mar, excluding Christmas). Hotels are available for between one-third and one-half of their rack rate. Even shopping prices come down.

Turkey is used as a staging post by traffickers from Afghanistan and Iran, and street drugs, though not a major part of the local culture, are available to those who want them. Penalties for trafficking or possession are extremely harsh. Never agree to carry things home for other people – Turks or fellow travellers.

There is a thriving industry creating fakes, from carpets and Roman coins to Rolex watches and Gucci bags. If you are happy to have a fake and it is sold as such, that’s fine. But if you are spending serious money, be sure to do so at a reputable outlet and that your purchase comes with full provenance.

Most cab drivers are fine, but some, particularly in the old city, charge three times the going rate and try to cheat on payment, pretending, for instance, that the 50 YTL note you just gave them was only 5 YTL. Inspect every note and say what it is out loud as you hand it over – also keep small notes at all times, as the drivers will rarely have change.

Most nightclubs in Turkey are sleazy places. There is a thriving trade in women from former Soviet states (called “natashas” by locals). Chances are that the woman sidling up to you will prove a ruinous proposition, not only in inflated drink prices (over $1,000 for the evening, quoted by some) but also in hospital visits later on.

Turkish men have a taste for soulful romance delivered with a twinkle in the eye. Enjoy, but keep it light. All too many women fall for the banter only to discover a couple of years down the line that the real draw was their EU or US passport. If you think you have found true romance, take it slowly and make sure.

Istanbul is on an earthquake belt and it rumbles regularly: the last major quake was in 1999 when, tragically, more than 23,000 people died in Greater Istanbul. But large quakes are few and far between. If one does occur while you are there, keep calm, make sure you have shelter and drinkable water, and try to make contact with your consulate.

Pickpockets and muggers operate in the market streets around the Grand Bazaar. Take the precautions normal for a crowded city – carry a handbag with a zip and a cross-shoulder strap, put your wallet in the front pocket of your jeans, and stay aware.

The Turks have great national pride and no sense of humour when it comes to their country. Criticizing Turkey in any way is a huge social faux pas. It is actually illegal to show disrespect to Atatürk, the Turkish government, flag or the security services.

As Islamic societies go, Turkey is very laid back but, while it is not necessary to dress from head to toe in basic black, you should respect the culture and beliefs (see Top 10 Tips on Islamic Etiquette ). Avoid public displays of affection between couples and, above all, do not make jokes about Islam.

Its terrace lapped by the Bosphorus, this Ottoman palace has a spa, health club and two of the city’s best restaurants. Most of the 315 rooms are in the modern extensions, but for a real treat take one of the 12 suites in the original palace.

The sheer opulence of the Four Seasons belies its past as an Ottoman prison. The 65 rooms are exquisitely furnished with antiques and kilims, there is a health club for the virtuous and sybaritic alike, the glass-roofed restaurant is magnificent, and there are superb views over the Sea of Marmara.

Standing on the site of the great Byzantine Palace, this truly luxuri-ous hotel even has its own museum. All 59 rooms and suites have parquet floors and Jacuzzi baths. There are two restaurants, a bar and a terrace with fine sea views.

This hilltop tower offers some of the finest views in a city where peerless views are commonplace. It has 390 rooms and suites, bar, restaurants, terrace, health club and 24-hour business centre. Join Istanbul high society for tea with live music in the botanic garden or tea lounge.

A resort hotel with 360 rooms and suites, the Hyatt has a health club, pool, tennis courts and business facilities, as well as elegant decor and great views.

Each of the 590 rooms in this huge, S-shaped hotel has a view. The facilities are second-to-none, and the furnishings chic. Its bars and restaurants offer Italian and Turkish cuisine.

In the heart of Beyoğlu, with a signature café-restaurant and rooftop pool, this chic hotel has fabulous floor-to-ceiling windows in every room.

This confection of gilt and crystal on the banks of the Bosphorus is the restored yalı (mansion) of a 19th-century Grand Vizier. With only 14 rooms, it is intimate as well as glamorous – perfect for a romantic dinner. A private boat commutes to the city centre.

“Ritz“ is a byword for luxury, and the Istanbul hotel’s 244 rooms and suites more than live up to expectation. There are spas for the women, and a whisky and cigar bar for the men.