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The heart of downtown has earned its name for reasons that become obvious as soon as you set foot here. This is one of the brightest places on earth – so much so that you can stand on the street at midnight and read a newspaper. Even before the Fremont Street Experience was conceived, the country’s leading neon designers and lighting engineers were strutting their stuff here.

A major part of the downtown revival was the transformation in 1995 of one four-block stretch of Fremont Street into a pedestrian mall, covered with a 90-ft (27-m) high “Space Frame” containing more than two million lights. Every night, from 8pm until midnight, an hourly sound and light extravaganza entertains the crowds below.

Las Vegas Vic (see Vegas Vic Sign) has been waving to passersby on Fremont Street since 1951. More illuminating insights into the history of neon are at the Neon Museum on the corner of Fremont and Las Vegas Boulevard.

The place where it all started is the Sal Sagev Hotel on Fremont Street, which is now the Golden Gate. The strange-looking original name makes sense in mirror-writing. The new place is famous not so much for gambling as for its shrimp cocktails.

Another mid-1990s downtown improvement is the walkway between Main and 4th Streets, which is decked with flowers, colorful street vendors’ carts, and strolling performers.

The four-star Golden Nugget is the best-value hotel in the city (rates can fall as low as $60 in the off-season). Its casino is also first-rate. Try the California Café for some of the best-value food downtown – and also for some great people-watching.

The biggest names in poker play at the Horseshoe, and the annual World Series is held here each May. To compete for the million-dollar prize, contestants must ante (put up) $10,000. Dallas bootlegger and gambler Benny Binion established the property in 1951, and it is still owned by his descendants.

Lady Luck is best known for its “fun-books” (coupon booklets) which have been known to include such items as free foot-long hotdogs and free photos. The books are available at the casino’s Mad Money booth.

If you ever want to get from one end of Fremont Street to the other, you will have to resist the charms of an assortment of exotically dressed showgirls, mermaids, and cowboys hired by the casinos to entice people in.

In addition to the production shows and lounge acts at most of the hotels (see Nightclubs and Lounges), entertainment centers on Fremont Street. It’s a popular venue for parades and performances by musical groups. (see Fremont Street Experience)